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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Or a faulty sensor, usually (like 80% of the time it's the relay block). A few connectors and 1x 8mm bolt and replace it. Or somewhere down the line a very smart/stupid person installed a non ABS rear diff and installed a longer tail shaft.. thus the rear sensor is missing.
  2. Forgot to add: Stock OEM N1 Oil Pump Gears (from factory, not replacement ones that shatter like glass)
  3. Hey Peoples! Have some parts from my shit box, all these parts were removed from a working Auto RB25DET NEO motor. Stock Used Parts: Cams (IN/EX) - $50 Cam Belt Sprocket & 2x plates (sits on crank) - $10 Cam Idler/Tensioner pulleys - $10 Valve Springs & Retainers - $50 Head Bolts, washers (aka head studs) - $50 Pistons, Connecting Rods (complete) - $200 Air Conditioning Pump & bracket - $100 Stock OEM Brand New Parts: Genuine Nissan RB25DET Head Gasket - $100 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Turbo Outlet Elbow & Dump Gasket $50 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Gasket $50 Great for someone doing a basic rebuild or a slapper job OR someone wanting to pop in DET pistons into their DE motor. Will sell the entire lot for $400 Location: Canley Vale Price: $400 for the lot OR as itemised
  4. hahah yeah nah, these cars are prehistoric man!
  5. Decided the block should be painted black, so it got painted black. Also the stock pistons were given a clean, looking good. So I decided to get new rings, new ACL race bearings, new ARP rod bolts, new ARP 2000 mains, Spool crank collar, Spool Billet N1 oil pump gears installed and lastly the OEM water/oil heat exchanger was deleted. Motor is still stock lol. Special thanks goes to Matt at Redsun Motorsport & Mechanical for dealing with my bullshit and also pointing out some cock ups with a previous shop that did my crank collar install.
  6. No, there is no connection between the two. Most likely your ABS relay block is cactus and the previous owner or dodgy importer removed the ABS bulb.
  7. Any new oil is going to be better than the oil in your motor at the moment. Even a shitty bottle of 10W40 Magnetec will be better.
  8. And it was a fail like everyone else has predicted
  9. Or do what the Japs did, run dual plenums, dual ICs. That should help reduce the turbos "fighting" each other. It's just like when you see two cocks in one box.. doesn't work too well, you need one in the pink and the other in the stink so noone is fighting for it. My stance has been 1x hole 1x goal, ie single turbo!
  10. but isn't it racing pedigree? can't have non Japanese parts on your car.. make sure you're running an eManage.. will make more power. (jokes aside, good luck).
  11. Sell me your turbo setup for my stock RB25. Would be perfect for me (one day).
  12. He had a Haltech, he removed it because he thought the PowerFC is better. FWIW, my microwave at home has more features and computing power than a PowerFC.
  13. send me your map again, I'll have look if there's some silly business going on
  14. nice exhaust system looks like a few people with the same idea as I had initially.. still a cat in there? Can you post up a log from the halaltech when you come on boost say in 3rd or 2nd, etc.? I suspect could be timing related as there's a table that allows you to retard timing as you come on/off the throttle to make the transients smoother.
  15. R35 AFM might tap out unless you run it in a larger pipe say 3.5" or run it on the cold side before the TB. I did a S15 running a R35 AFM, although in a 3" pipe without any air straighteners installed and it was hitting 4.8V each time it came on boost for a car only making ~240kW. I prefer the HPX version of the R35 card as it supports more air flow in the same pipe.
  16. He has an auto, would not surprise me.if there are parts of the map that have timing pulled out where the gear changes happen.
  17. Is there a chance your car is misfiring coming onto boost or timing is so retarded EGTs go through the roof? If so youll get a spike as you're describing.
  18. You should not use the IAT off the R35 sensor (that's if you're pre turbo).
  19. The only time I think twins would truly work is if they were both mounted on proper manifolds, externally gated x2, intercooler x2, plenum x2 (1-3 & 4-6). That way there's no turbulence or turbos "fighting" to push into one cooler pipe/core. By that time, effort and money you're better off with a big fat modern twin scroll single.
  20. Would be a good set up but if you're looking to make over the 400kW Mark I would seriously jam a bigger rear on. Once I outgrow my turbo I may look along those lines however a GTX3576 with a 1.0x ish rear and twin scroll everything - blah blah blah lol
  21. It's because it's a complete bolt on solution, yes a GTX3071 "might" be bolt on, but you still need a new intake new water/oil lines and by the time you're done that's nearly double the price of a Hypergear. Most GTS-t owners: are on a budget usually do the work themselves because of point 1 want power fast want not so much lag want plug and play If someone had a built motor, and wanted 400kW+ etc. said they wanted power/response for roll racing/track work then I wouldn't recommend a Hypergear. There are other threads where I've mentioned GTX3576s or EFR8374s, etc. Just to be clear, I am not sponsored by Hypergear nor is there any financial benefit for me in recommending the brand.
  22. You're better off with a Hypergear turbo to be honest. His latest high flow will get you close to 300kW on 98RON in the stock location, stock dump, etc. (Just need the right supporting mods). On E85 or WMI you'll easily go 350kW+
  23. Must admit, your car doses well... 10 points.
  24. Went yalla habibi spec, 18x9.5 +22. Has some homosex 245 wide tyres, once the car is running again OR when I decide to put a motor and gearbox into it I will get the guards cut/reshaped to allow 265 semis to fit under the guards and look stock. No gay stretch no gay camber. And funny enough, the Rays 57S aka Gram Lights are indeed lighter than the OEM GT-R wheels. Thank you sir, need to make the car look good before it runs lol
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