
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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Need advice upgrading R34 GTT Turbo
GTSBoy replied to Danowner's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Stay below 2500 rpm and 25% throttle. If it actually runs properly, you will be able to drive it. -
I don't know the rules where you are......but I simply wouldn't go near anything that could cause me that much trouble without a steeeeeep discount.
- 8 replies
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- r33
- import sticker
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(and 2 more)
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Rb20det stand alone factory unit
GTSBoy replied to kevyc's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
If you know anyone with a portable LCD CRO or are willing to buy a cheap USB one for your phone, you could test the waveform more thoroughly. Otherwise, you may be into the realm of swaptronics. Actually, if you have or can borrow an analogue multimeter, you might see something on that. It should sit at 12V (if you probe the ignitor connection from the ECU with the other side of the meter on earth). If the ECU pulls the ignitor down to earth, even briefly, it might be enough to make the needle flicker down from 12V. -
Rb20det stand alone factory unit
GTSBoy replied to kevyc's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Entirely possible the ECU's ignition outputs have been fried. Try putting a test light from power to an ignition line from the ECU (at the ignitor would be convenient and see if you even get a flicker of light when the ECU should be switching the output to ground. Pulsewidth might not be enough to get a glow, but if you do get a glow, at least you can assume that that ECU output is working. -
Let's just say that you need to be making stupid power before the time, effort and cost required to put a GTR diff into a GTSt, just to get a small improvement in strength on those parts becomes worth it. The 5 bolt stuff is very strong. You can put a 1.5 way mech centre into the GTSt diff without having to change all that other stuff. And then, on top of that, the GTR stock mech centre is usually swapped out by people looking for a more capable LSD anyway, as it is not very aggressive. As to what oil.....so long as you're not talking about viscous GTSt diffs (which do NOT require LSD oil) then pretty much any LSD oil will do. But more particularly, different brands of mechanical diff work better with different oils. Nismo send the diff to you with Nismo oil, Cusco send Cusco oil, Kaaz ditto, etc etc. Some of those even work better with different oils than what the maker recommends (ie, maybe less LSD action, but nicer manners). So, the important thing is to pick your diff first, then ask the oil question. And the best mechanical diff for a street car (assuming we're talking about a streeter here) is a helical, and they don't need LSD oil either.
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L26 engine replacement
GTSBoy replied to Bohunter's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Think about how little work there would be in a "prostitute's rebuild". Dismantle, wash, hone bores, new rings, new bearings at the most. New gaskets. Close her up and send her back to work. It's equivalent to scraping the scabs out. -
Yuh, hence why I said what I said. Without knowing whether it lines up on that car/dyno combo, you don't quite have enough info to assume. FWIW, torque climbs from low to max in an NA....there is no boost to "set" the torque level. That efficiency/breathing function is still present in a turbo engine too. So if the boost comes up to max before the engine has reached its inherent torque plateau, then the torque should still lag the boost.
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Why change from 4.083 to 4.11? Makes no sense. You will never tell the difference. As to the LSD.....The Nismos are broadly considered to be the nicest. 1.5 way for the street. 2 way for hardcore carpark action. After that, Cusco, etc etc, are all rather similar. Some have different features (like being able to alter the config from 1 to 1.5 to 2 way). Some are really harsh to live with but can be moderated a little with different oils. Have a read on here for mentions. If I was to replace my helical, I would probably go Nismo.
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The switch is under the lever. You need to remove the console to see it. Up until you said it coincided with the thump event, I would have said "check the globe". I still think that coincidence is possible and that you should check the globe.
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Farting/droning sound from rb25det
GTSBoy replied to dtrants's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Both videos sound exactly like GTR BOV fart on RB25. Mine does the same noise, but it in no way slows the car down. -
Torque line is not boost line.
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The gearboxes are effectively the same part, so it would have lasted the same.
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L26 engine replacement
GTSBoy replied to Bohunter's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
You might have to pull it apart and give it a prostitute's rebuild. -
Is that with your head tilted to the side, or looking out the corner of your eye?
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Underneath?
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RB30E Head on R33 RB25DET Block
GTSBoy replied to teng's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yes....but caution is advised. RB30 is 2 valve engine, so the valve reliefs on high comp RB25 pistons might not be right for the larger RB30 valves. -
RB30E Head on R33 RB25DET Block
GTSBoy replied to teng's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
The resulting compression ratio is NOT the same. One has a 500cc per cylinder swept volume and the other has 416cc per cylinder swept volume. Put the smaller cylinder's head on the large cylinder and the ratio will go up. A lot. Put the large cylinder's head onto the small cylinder and the ratio will go down. A lot. -
The ratio is stamped on the edge of the crownwheel (# of CW teeth and # of pinion teeth). Take the cover off and see for yourself.
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The only thing that is definitely the case is that they are NOT 5x100. You could measure the PCD yourself and work this out in about 3.2 seconds. Now, the possibilities are.....Wedsport, despite being a "brand name" are a lazy bunch of f**ktards and can't be arsed having the right sizing in the moulds for wheels that they are making. Or.....you and your mates have been buying fakes, and the lazy Chinese ccommunist arseholes ripping off Wedsport are too lazy to do a good job of faking the sizing in the casting.
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Just get an ecutalk? Do we need a <sarcasm> tag?
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- r34 na turbo det de manuel
- rb25
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Don't be obtuse. It's not the definition of "flex" when referring to what fuel a car can run on. That is a fuel company somewhat deliberately confusing matters. It's also a far smaller slice of the ethanol market than is represented by United, which conveniently calls the fuel by a name that represents what it actually is.
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- r34 na turbo det de manuel
- rb25
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RB25DETNEO Valves Required ASAP - Help!
GTSBoy replied to MikeR34GTT's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I'd be calling Ferrea tonight and asking them direct if there is a known problem with their stock replacements not fitting. Maybe they can only be fitted with Ferrea supplied retainers etc. Maybe the guy at the head shop has been enjoying too much herbal relaxation. You could try calling Lewis Engines in Adelaide. They have lots of experience with Ferrea valves in RBs..