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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Pictures likely won't help. We're talking about you having it put together ever so slightly cocked or with a spacer or something out of place. Not the sort of thing that we'll be able to see in your typical F2.4 super wide angle phone cam picture.
  2. GTSBoy
    Don't be a f**kwit. You asked. I answered with useful info. I also told you that if it was a VLSD it was a waste of time, not knowing whether Nissan persisted with putting those useless lumps of shit into cars after the R3x era. Now that I do know, I can authoritatively tell the next guy that it is definitely a bad idea. Thanks, you have helped the forum. Put it this way, if you have a car that will work well with a VLSD, you don't really need an LSD at all.
  3. GTSBoy
    Connect straight from boost sense port to the wastegate. One hose, job done. But I wouldn't do that. I would also install an EBC so you can keep the boost off the actuator to get the ramp rate up, otherwise it will still feel slow coming onto boost.
  4. GTSBoy
    Yuh, you've not put it back together right.
  5. GTSBoy
    Might be the best idea. There's no point in listening to people who have been there and done that. What the f**k would we know?
  6. GTSBoy
    VLSDs are useless behind stock turbo RB20s at 14 psi. Not a lot of power.
  7. GTSBoy
    VLSDs are intended for use with low torque factory engines. Hit them with more torque than they were intended to handle, especially once they are 10 or so years old, and they just turn to single wheeling shit.
  8. GTSBoy
    So long as these LSDs are not viscous LSDs. VLSDs are like AIDS, and no-one wants AIDS.
  9. GTSBoy
    They are both R200 diffs, from similar era cars, so it is likely that the housings/mountings etc are compatible. Splines not lining up is not a problem unless the LSD has different stub axles to what the other diff has. This is actually a strong possibility. So if you have to keep the stub axles that belong to the centre, then you may have to look at swapping driveshafts too. This is possible. Most (OK, not necessarily most, but certainly many) Nissan driveshafts swap from family to family. Ratio difference is something that you will have to work out if the change is good or bad. It will throw your speedo out. That's always bad. If you can't take it, then you will be looking at swapping the CW&P from your original diff onto the LSD centre. This is a complete disassemble of both diffs and reassembly (and proper setup) of at least one. This is usually possible, but Nissan do have a habit of launching surprises at the unwary, where the CW bolts are different sizes in two otherwise similar diffs. The other problem that may crop up is differences in the ABS sensors and rings.
  10. GTSBoy
    Probably a little more than 240 would be good, so long as the overlap was right. The problem is that if you are keeping the same max lift you really can't change the location of the lobe centre..... so you can't move the open and close events around to correct any overlap problem without making the lobes asymmetric.
  11. GTSBoy
    Typical GTR story unfolding here! Welcome to the fold. Bring more money.
  12. GTSBoy
    And I would still choose Nistune (even on an R33 with the extra pain involved) over a PFC, any day of the week.
  13. GTSBoy
    Absolutely. That's trivial. But you'd probably be better off going to the same people that you would ask for that do be done (ie, Kelfords) and get them to make you a set of actually decent cams with MORE lift and the right balance between total duration and overlap. But, looking at your video, you're at 1 bar at 3200 rpm. Don't know if I'd be upset with that, myself.
  14. GTSBoy
    Yuh, but the subframe is essentially the same as the GTSt subframe. The stuff that's bolted to it is not responsible for the geometry. And the GTR diff isn't "stronger" than the GTSt diff. Yeah, sure, it's a mechanical LSD, but then anyone dragging a non GTR is going to put a mech centre into the GTSt diff anyway. And the 6 bolt axles are only marginally stronger than the 5 bolt. So, go ahead and put that stuff in if you want to, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it's a major upgrade in terms of strength. And do not make the mistake of thinking that the GTR subframe is better than the one that you have. In the R33/4 and S14/5 cars, the suspension geometry was significantly improved over the R32 & S13 era cars. And the S chassis cars don't have HICAS, which is worth getting rid of for any car, but certainly good to get rid of for drag.
  15. GTSBoy
    Why? There's no point. It's not superior to the one you have now.
  16. GTSBoy
    First you need to fix the subframe. The anti-squat geometry on R32s is the enemy of drag traction. After you've replaced it with an S14 subframe, put a full set of adjustable arms into it and ensure that they are dialled in for minimal camber and as little bump steer as possible. Then speak to MCA about some custom valved coilovers.
  17. GTSBoy
    Nah. Typical 5V signal working against the seriously high input impedance of any decent device that wants to look at that signal will flow a poofteenth of f**k all current. if some arsehat is responsible for the design of the input on the device, however, and it sinks a reasonable amount of current, then all bets are off.
  18. GTSBoy
    99% of R32 headlights are perfectly clear. Being glass, as mentioned above, they never get cloudy.
  19. GTSBoy
    Then charge right ahead. Just put the sandwich plate directly onto the block.
  20. GTSBoy
    Um, what? Take off the RB26 oil heat exchanger and replace with an RB30 oil filter stud. Same as it's always been. Sensor ports and supplies for V-Cam etc are simply a matter of making do with what is on the sandwich plate and using a T or 2 if needed.
  21. GTSBoy
    Following up on this AGAIN for more posterity. After 6 months and not very many road kilometers, the "self-lubricating" teflon lined bearings started talking. And they rapidly got a lot worse. Over a distance of probably only 500km a little squawk turned into a major cacophony. The weather has been almost exclusively dry too, so it's not as if they got all wet every day and rusted. Took them apart and found that the outer rod end on the strong arm part was very tight and marked where it had been galling the outer race. The other two rod ends on the other part of the arm were also a little tight and a little marked, but not as bad. The bearings installed in the inner end of the strong arm appear to be COM10T press in rod ends (2 off) with an ally crush tube in between. A reasonable enough idea, except that these are rods ends just like the others, but don't get any weather/dust protection. So while the other rods ends have boots that do at least something, the COM10Ts are exposed. These bearings were all much harder to rotate than they were when new. I'm thinking that maybe some sort of rolling element bearing with grease seals might be worth considering on these. So I cleaned everything as well as I could, sprayed teflon spray into the COM10Ts, whacked a lot of lithium grease into the other rod ends and they're silent again. This may not be the right thing to do, but we'll find out, won't we.
  22. GTSBoy
    I am still not happy with you. You do not need those seats in that car. You know someone who needs them more!
  23. GTSBoy
    Too small to be useful. These would only work as the 2nd stage of a 2 tank system (methinks).
  24. GTSBoy
    Close enough. :D
  25. GTSBoy
    S13 same same with R32. You could always buy Hardrace from Oz and get them sent over. They are somewhat cheaper than Whiteline (which trades heavily on its name) but at least as good. Just depends on what the shipping might cost you.
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