GTSBoy

I would say that the benefits from waving a die grinder around in there will be unmeasureable. There may be some benefit to keeping the finish on the inside of the bend a bit rougher to hold on to the flow for longer, thus reducing separation and thereby using more of the cross section for actual flow. Luckily, this is he hardest bit to reach with a burr.....so, win. The runners are not small on a 25, so there's little point in trying to make them bigger. The single biggest benefit available would be to ensure a good port match, and even that advice would be subject to knowledge about how the port itself works and whether a small mismatch at the runner-port interface can actually help (which it sometimes can, to force flow to bias a little to one side or the other to set it up to make better use of the downstream port shape, short turn, etc). But I don't know, so am not going to say. And one very important thing for you all to remember. I cannot imagine any flow, at any point in an automotive intake tract that will not be fully developed turbulent flow with Re well above the minimum. Usually Re> several tens of thousands, even at low revs. The velocities involved are simply too high. And boost has nothing to do with it, because as the velocity goes down (because boost) then the density goes up at the same rate and they cancel each other's effect. You'd have to have the air velocity down into the single digit m/s range to even hope to get the Re below 10k. There is pretty much no such thing as "laminar flow" in any part of anything real. The best you can hope for is "well conditioned turbulent" flow, where the flow is fully turbulent, but it has had time in a straight duct to develop an even velocity profile

There would not be a very large number of people who would have attempted what you propose (just with the injectors, not the engine plan itself). Certainly not in recent years. These days, as Dose said above, good injectors are cheap, and also much much much better than shitty old side feeds.

Sympathy free zone here!

This thread keeps on delivering. . . . . . . Hand to hand.

You might need 12-20 injectors to get 6-8 flow matched units. It's not as if they "adjust" them to flow match them. Flow matching is just binning injectors with similar flow together.

Who gives a shit about what it looks like (unless you're frightened of VicPol)? The only thing that matters is how well it works. Singles work better than twins.

Is this a trick question? The standard answer here is go a big single. Any effort spent on putting shitty old twins onto a 26 is wasted effort.

You could do that, which is the sort of thing I meant by "depends on what you swap". Would seem stupid to put 10 year older alternator back in just to save having to do some wiring/termination changes. When I put RB25 Neo into my R32, we took the R34 loom an made the necessary changes to it to connect to the body side loom (you know, fuse box, starter, gearbox, etc) where there were differences, even before we pulled the RB20 out.

Depends on what you swap. Alternator wiring and other connections to body side looms will likely have differences. All the mechanical connections, mounted, etc, are same same I think.

Um....you can hardly blame Nistune for an R32 or Z32 ECU not necessarily wanting to work with an R33 TCU. Nistuned auto ECUs usually work fine in the parent car.

No. Literally the most sensible advice is to start the engine, let it run long enough to put the club lock behind your seat/fold up the sun screen/fasten your belt/look over your shoulder and then just drive away. It is what you do from that point on that matters. You don't rev it hard or load it up until it has some heat in it. You don't rev it really hard or give it lots of load until it is pretty much all the way up to normal temperature. So, in the context of how long that is in a Skyline, from cold, you drive it gently for the first few minutes, but you can use a bit of gas to get it onto the highway and you won't be leaning on it until you've been driving for at least 5-10 minutes. Letting a cold car idle for ages is not sensible. I let mine idle for a bit because I need to start it to get it out of its hole and put bags, etc in it, but it is only for a couple of minutes and it is still cold enough that I don't lean on it until I am well out onto the main road, a few km away.

No. See the chassis rail? That's the stiffmaker. Make it stiffer, add crossbraces from side to side. Car will still twist when you jack one wheel unless you put a cage in it.

32 GTR seats will fit. But they do not belong in an R33. If they are in good condition, you should sell them to me and I will put them in a deserving R32.

This is one area where I can only say, I simply cannot imagine why they wouldn't. The fronts are a certainty. The rears.....the only reason that R33 don't fit R32, for example, is that the car is a different shape. There's no reason for Nissan to change the miserable way that the seats are held down between S1 & S2.

Well......as if none of these thoughts and questions have ever been posted on here and replied to before.

Did you not stop to think that if you earth the switch and the AC switches on, and you replace the switch but it still won't switch on, that perhaps the switch is doing what it is supposed to do and preventing the compressor from starting when the gas pressure is too low because half of it has fallen out?

Try running it on Aerostart.

This. So much this. I read the thread before anyone else replied, shook my head and closed it again. Basically the real answer is this. If you have such high ignorance of what might be needed doing on the car to handle 1000HP.....it's probably best not to do a 25/30 and not to aim for 1000HP. Just don't.

What options are you looking for? It would seem that the correct thing to do would be to inspect it, or get it inspected, then get whatever machining is needed to clean it up, throw some new bearings at it, along with whatever other jewellery you can afford to put inside the block, close it up and boost off into the sunset again.

I'm pretty sure that's the internal temp sensor for the climate control. Sucks air in through the front. It is wired up as per what you'd expect.

plugs?

There are specific clear plastic products exactly for this. The same film you see on new cars in spots likely to cop stones, like just in front of the rear wheel arches, trailing edge of back door, etc. They're still a compromise. The car looks different/wrong with it spread all across the front.

It will bolt to gearbag and mounts. It will destroy the gearbag if you use any of the turbo's extra performance. There are many electrical differences. Best bet is to take the whole engine/ECU loom and be prepared for annoying differences in the peripheral electrical connections (like maybe the alternator wiring, air-con, etc).

Build what you have. Neo head is solid lifter. You will need new valves and possibly need guides for those that were bent. Impossible to say for sure. Trust the head shop. if you want to go crazy on the build, go crazy. But otherwise a light duty build using stockish parts is not going to be horrifying. Again, it's impossible to say whether the pistons will go back in the holes with little work needed or if you should just replace them. Trust the engine guy. The stock rods are RB26 rods - they're pretty good for stock rods. You will definitely want to look at sorting out the oil pump drive, bearings throughout, etc.

Check fuel pressure. Under load. Also just maybe an outside chance that the ECU's water temperature sender is not right....or even the thermostat is stuffed and it's too cold. Check that too if needed.