GTSBoy

I'd suggest a sticky piston on the LHF caliper.

PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33. It is VERY old tech now though. If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better. Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install. Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though. Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car. Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options. It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.

Yup. Options for tuning R33s do not sensibly include random "chips". Options above are to be considered.

You know, the wiring diagrams for the R32 GTR have been available in the workshop manual on-line for about 20 years. The temp sensor is almost certainly a thermistor. So why don't you grab a decade box, some wires and the wiring diagram and start plugging different resistance values (starting high) into the air-con box until you get what you need? If you go a little further you could work out more than one point on the T-R curve and work out what sort of thermistor you would need to replace the missing one so the air-con works properly.

I tried to understand it too. Gave up.

FFS. Let this thread die!

Defo 9:1. Even higher if possible, with E85. Cams keep gentle if you're not going to replace all that weak as shit SR gear on top of the motor. Cheapskate the ex manifold. Put the money saved towards some head work. A little attention in the ports will be worth more than bigger cams, better manifold, etc.

Change the speedo head. Speed signal is +/- 1V sawtooth signal from sender to speedo head. Speedo head electronics convert that to 0-5V squarewave for the ECU etc. If there is no display or output at low speeds but it works at high speeds, then it's probably not a broken wire or loose connection. it is some dodgy electronics. You could take it to an instrument specialist. You know, like we used to do back before the internet.

Well, yeah.

Engine damper https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JJR-Engine-Damper-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-GTR/371514228212?hash=item567ff93df4:g:2DAAAOSwNyFWeMlm

AFM is probably full of cobwebs, dirt or rust. Same with its terminals. Fuel pump could be soft.

Um, 1. Somebody extended it to that spot so they could use something that plugs into one at that spot. 2. Shorten the wires?

It's cool. Don't run it as plastic too long. It will probably break quite quickly unless you seriously add some beef to it.

This. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Lancer-2006/SSE-AD-5349452/?Cr=0 Bloke works with me. Car is good. Well looked after and hasn't been abused. Mods and E85 tuning by Steve Knight.

You are not listening. There are 2 boost sensors. I'm not talking about the factory boost solenoid. I am talking about boost sensors. OK, we're mixing terms. They are both MAP sensors. One runs the gauge. The other is connected to the ECU and the ECU uses it exactly as I said in my first post. THAT is the one that has some sort of problem. Have you removed it? Disconnected it? If so, then there is your problem.

That car (chassis) was available with that engine so it's not a problem. You will have to have the equivalent brakes on it, and it will have to be scrupulously roadworthy to pass Regency if it needs to go over the pits. If it hasn't been rego'd here before, you will need to make an application for the modification, get an ID inspection and then get the tech inspection. So make sure it is the right height, lights, horn, demister, wipers and all that shit works. Make sure seatbelts aren't frayed, chassis rails are not dented, rust is not present in the chassis, numberplates are not modified, oil is not leaking, dampers are not leaking, tyres are good, wheels are not stupid size (so track is within limits) suspension arms aren't illegal, exhaust is quiet enough, door lock striker rubber covers are present, tyre placard is present and correct, ECU is standard (for that engine), emissions controls are present and working, windscreen is in good condition, tint is not too dark......um, have I forgotten anything?

Well, obviously, if you have nothing in there to keep the mist in the engine the mist is going to flow to your catch can setup and you will have to deal with an increased amount of oil - whatever that "dealing with" entails. They should have foam in them and if they don't they will still "work", for a given smaller value of the term "work".

I drove one of those RB20E R33s. I got out and walked. Was faster. f**k they are a terrible idea. Stupid Japanese rego rules.

It should. The thing that matters is the 4 bolt holes on the water pump and the water pump on the RB30 is Nissan OEM the same as the RB20s & 25s. You could check for yourself by posting up the dimensions of your RB30 bolt PCD and one of us could post up the dims from a 20/25 pump/hub. I have one spare in the shed, for example. But caution is warranted. Your noise could just be because the clutch has seized and makes more noise than it should because the fan is locked on. Simple seizure is not the only possible failure. They can over-react to temperature too, locking up cooler than they should, leading to more noise. My RB25's fan clutch is like that. Sounds like a Navara or Patrol as soon as the weather gets hot, whereas my old RB20 clutch was fine (until it seized up and died altogether).

Look, if the engine is just stopping, then either it has a mechanical problem / vacuum leak / fuel supply issue etc etc, OR it is simply losing electrical power to something vital. These vital things include the coils, for example, and the ECU. The Nissan engine management system is known by their abbreviation ECCS. The ECCS relay is the relay that provides power to the ECU. Its operation is a little complicated, but the overall view is that when you want the engine to be running the ECCS relay needs to be powered up. Like all relays, they can get flaky. When they do, they can drop power to the ECU, which tends to have sudden consequences. You can find the relay near the ECU. If you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't stuff around down there, because you can make things worse. If you had put the words "ECCS relay" into google, you would have found all the thousands of words that have been written on here across the last 25 years, in which you will find much wisdom. The O2 sensor and the TPS are not likely to be responsible for your stoppages. The CAS might. The fuel pump might, just. A broken wire in a loom definitely could.

Oh, for god's sake. It's not the charging system. If the engine is stopping, the charge light will come on because the engine has stopped!

It's not the battery. There is no battery light. That's the "ignition on but no roundy roundy happening light". If it's electrical, it will be the ECCS relay. If it is engine temperature related, it will be the idle control/cold start stuff not working properly.

There are 2 MAP sensors. The one for the gauge has nothing to do with the ECU. The other MAP sensor (what the ECU is calling the boost sensor) is used by the ECU to tell when you have boost and to ensure that you do not have too much boost. So, the fault code can either be because the sensor has died or become disconnected, or it can be because you have increased the boost too much and the ECU knows what you did last summer. If you have wound the boost up that far on the stock ECU, then it will be no faster than it would be at lower boost, because the ECU will have dropped in all the fuel and taken out all the timing.

Yuh, the refrigerant pressure switch will prevent the compressor from pulling in to prevent you operating an empty compressor. Other things that can stop the air con include that even the fan circuit could be dead (fuse maybe) and if the fan won't run then you don't get a permissive to run the compressor (so you don't ice up the evaporator). There's a bunch of things. If you aren't good with cars, check the fuses, follow the advice above, then take it to an air-con guy if you can't see something simple holding it out.

There's a million things that could be wrong. Start by assessing whether there is even power to the back of the air-con computer. Progress to seeing if there is enough gas in the system to satisfy the pressure switch. You will almost certainly need to take it to an air-con mechanic at that point.