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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Well......when you have a gauge that is intermittently erroneous, it looks a lot like a gauge that's telling you the truth about the system it's monitoring having an intermittent problem. Limited data in = large range of explanations.
  2. GTSBoy
    AFM wiring has probably been hacked in some way. Did it have a Z32 on there with the big turbo? Or was it converted to a MAP ECU and someone found another use for the AFM wires? etc?
  3. GTSBoy

    Oil Loss

    GTSBoy replied to Mick's topic in General Maintenance

    2.5 litres in 3 months is normal for some brand new cars! It was burnt. Probably went past the valve stem seals (after your gunk removal removed the gunk that was previously stopping the oil from getting past.
  4. GTSBoy
    Define laggy? Willing to rev to 9?
  5. GTSBoy
    Doesn't need to be a smart corporate girl. Just needs to be a hotty with only enough sense to link diamond ring to lubrication.
  6. GTSBoy
    The very nicest non-coilover struts that you can choose to put in are Bilstein. We usually use B6s, as being the best price/performance point, but B8s are a significant step up in niceness, if you can afford them. These all work well with normal Kings/Tein/other good aftermarket stiffer springs in the stock format. You can actually have them modified by adding adjustable spring perches to turn them into height adjustable coilovers that take normal coilover springs. It's just more $$. I got SydneyKid to build me a set of his Bilsteins......around 4 years ago now. He was reluctantly still doing them for SAUers back then. No idea if he still does now. He puts a custom revalve into them that makes them even better than they are off the shelf (for Skylines). He was doing similar for Stageas, but I have no idea if he did anything for newer Stageas. Cost me ~$1400 for 4 modded dampers + new bump stops. Vanilla B6s should be buyable for same-ish money, but I haven't looked. I added new springs to my setup and ended up spending more than I would have for bottom end coilovers but somewhat less than I would have for upper end MCAs. Seemed a good compromise at the time.
  7. GTSBoy
    First image is original R32 heater hoses coming out of firewall and going behind head. Note that the RB25DET Neo steel heater pipes have been removed from the back of the head. (Ignore the small hose mixed up with it - it's my current attempt to stop smurf jizz spoogin all over my parking spots. Second image is same R32 heater hoses seen from other side of head. Retains the original R32 bleeder point (just under the brake pipe you can see on lower edge of photo). If you look down next to the clutch master, where the brake pipe bends under it, you can see the hose clamps that show where I have the size reducing joiners. I cut the R32 hoses here, put the joiners in and also cut back the RB25 hoses coming off the head/water log/block (wherever they each came from). The last photo shows same thing from forward of the clutch master. The bit of heater hose with the dried green smurf spoof is the RB25 heater hose and you can see its hose clamp onto the engine side connection behind that bit of loom.
  8. GTSBoy
    Oooh. Yuck. VAG product outside of warranty. I'd rather have AIDS, or a Magna.
  9. GTSBoy
    Northern suburbs. Car is close to the city during the day.
  10. GTSBoy
    You can come look at mine if you want.
  11. GTSBoy
    I don't remember the details, but I just cut the R32 ones and used size-changing joiners to connect them to the appropriate points on the back end of the inlet manifold/water log stuff. The R32/RB20 stuff is different sized to the R34/Neo hoses, so you can't just get Neo hoses and use them (and they go to the wrong spot on the firewall anyway, I think).
  12. GTSBoy
    Yuh, but this one is at least an RB25, so it will at least have enough torque to drive away from a set of traffic lights faster than a 3 yr old on a tricycle. With a set of cams and decent exhaust, they sound alright and could be a bit of fun. Just not fast.
  13. GTSBoy
    Actually, I will stand up and say that an R32 GTS25 wouldn't be a bad daily. Certainly not fast, and for that reason may not have been thrashed. But if it shows any signs of being in anything other than really great condition, then do not pass go, do not exchange $200 for it. Simply not worth the investment. For $4k (its absolute max value) you could get something less than half as old with many fewer miles done. Full admission.....I have a sneaking want to put a supercharger on an RB25 R32. But would need a diff and brakes and suspension and turn something supposedly cheap into a dollar pit.
  14. GTSBoy
    Almost all the brakes will cross match. The caveat is that R34s have 14mm bolts (for the most part) where everything prior was 12mm. Any 2WD Stagea is basically the same gear front and rear as the common-era Skyline. Any 4WD Stagea is basically the same gear as the matching GTR. As most things stayed the same between GTRs 32-34, there's a lot that cross match. All that is important is what type of lower rear shock mount they have and the brake bolt size, for the most part.
  15. GTSBoy
    I figured the CJ compensation is #1 suspect, but given that these things are little microprocessors with an analogue input and stepper motor driver etc etc, I figured that a whole lot of things could go wrong inside them. These are the relatively cheap Taiwanese made (but decent brand) stepper motor style things that, in my case, had some of the illumination LEDs inside die after only a short period of use, forcing me to choose the other colour LEDS to use. Lucky none of that colour have died. Short version, they are built down to a price. They have been surprisingly accurate for that though, up until this misbehaviour.
  16. GTSBoy
    It is a 1980s product.
  17. GTSBoy
    There is no way that you will get it to run on 20 injectors on a 20 ECU even with the fuel pressure bumped up a bit. It's a 3 LITRE ENGINE
  18. GTSBoy
    HAVE YOU SEARCHED? USING GOOGLE? THE INFO HAS BEEN POSTED HERE BEFORE.
  19. GTSBoy
    I thought mine were too. SuperPro/Whiteline adjustable urethane in OEM arms. Upon removal to fit the new GKTech awesome sauce FUCAs, I discovered exactly how bad they were. Outer and inner bolts were a looooooong way from parallel due to urethane bushes being well out of shape. Unsurprisingly, the car drives a lot better since.
  20. GTSBoy
    OK, so a month later (but only 1.5 tanks of fuel later, because I've been overseas half the time).....and it appears as if it is not dodgy fuel. I haven't put Shell in since then. Just 2 fills with BP98. First one was normal operation. The most recent tank, the EGTs have been high again. But, properly intermittently. I finally got the shits up enough with it to put the laptop on it while it was playing up. Timing was exactly as commanded by the map, so not retarded. Fuelling looked fine (pulse widths were as expected, narrow band was flicking back and forth from 0-1v as normal). Got the shits up even more and took the IR pyrometer along for a drive. Drove up a big hill and parked it with the EGT indicating 800°C idling. Turbo flange was only 400°C. which is exactly the sort of temperature I'd expect it to be based on old normal operation where the EGT would sit on about 550°C after that drive. Suspicion is now nearly 100% on a dodgy EGT probe, or more likely, gauge.
  21. GTSBoy
    Shat upper control arm bushes will sometimes feel like that. More movement than desired/expected.
  22. GTSBoy
    I can't be precise......but I effectively have GTR springs on my R32. About 5.5 kg/mm at the front and about 4 at the rear. I have SK modified B6s on my car and they work really well with those springs. But I used to have off the shelf B6s using springs that were only a bees dick less stiff and they were also fine. I can tell that SK's revalving is worth having, but it's not like it's the difference between them working and not working. It's more about the quality of teh damping than the absolute quantity, if you know what I mean. So, on that basis, I would suggest that off the shelf B6 valving will more than likely have no problems at all handling 6 kg/mm springs. The beauty of the valve stack on good dampers like Bilsteins is that they can actually handle a very wide range of spring rates. Have a read of SK's sticky damper thread for a refresh if it's been a while. If chickluvit has gone all the way up to 9kg springs at the front, I'm not at all surprised that B6s would need different valving. Those spring rates are a loooong way from what Bilstein would have intended the dampers to work with.
  23. GTSBoy
    I'm pretty sure that if you search carefully you'll find that someone has already posted stuff for the R35 sensor for PowerFC. I don't know where, because I took no notice because I have no time for PowerFC. If it wasn't for that, I would suggest that you could easily build something from scratch based on the information on it available inside Nistune, by comparing the Nistune Z32 map against the PowerFC Z32 map, and then using that comparison to scale the Nistune R35 map into a PowerFC equivalent.
  24. GTSBoy
    Obviously enough, it's different depending on which size pipe it's in. Choose first. Millimetres matter here too. Don't use a curve for a 4" pipe if you don't know what was meant by 4". Could be 100mm, could be 101.6mm, could be ID, could be OD, could be just about anything.
  25. GTSBoy
    And as they say, you can never have too much lube.
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