GTSBoy

VLSDs are intended for use with low torque factory engines. Hit them with more torque than they were intended to handle, especially once they are 10 or so years old, and they just turn to single wheeling shit.

So long as these LSDs are not viscous LSDs. VLSDs are like AIDS, and no-one wants AIDS.

They are both R200 diffs, from similar era cars, so it is likely that the housings/mountings etc are compatible. Splines not lining up is not a problem unless the LSD has different stub axles to what the other diff has. This is actually a strong possibility. So if you have to keep the stub axles that belong to the centre, then you may have to look at swapping driveshafts too. This is possible. Most (OK, not necessarily most, but certainly many) Nissan driveshafts swap from family to family. Ratio difference is something that you will have to work out if the change is good or bad. It will throw your speedo out. That's always bad. If you can't take it, then you will be looking at swapping the CW&P from your original diff onto the LSD centre. This is a complete disassemble of both diffs and reassembly (and proper setup) of at least one. This is usually possible, but Nissan do have a habit of launching surprises at the unwary, where the CW bolts are different sizes in two otherwise similar diffs. The other problem that may crop up is differences in the ABS sensors and rings.

Probably a little more than 240 would be good, so long as the overlap was right. The problem is that if you are keeping the same max lift you really can't change the location of the lobe centre..... so you can't move the open and close events around to correct any overlap problem without making the lobes asymmetric.

Typical GTR story unfolding here! Welcome to the fold. Bring more money.

And I would still choose Nistune (even on an R33 with the extra pain involved) over a PFC, any day of the week.

Absolutely. That's trivial. But you'd probably be better off going to the same people that you would ask for that do be done (ie, Kelfords) and get them to make you a set of actually decent cams with MORE lift and the right balance between total duration and overlap. But, looking at your video, you're at 1 bar at 3200 rpm. Don't know if I'd be upset with that, myself.

Yuh, but the subframe is essentially the same as the GTSt subframe. The stuff that's bolted to it is not responsible for the geometry. And the GTR diff isn't "stronger" than the GTSt diff. Yeah, sure, it's a mechanical LSD, but then anyone dragging a non GTR is going to put a mech centre into the GTSt diff anyway. And the 6 bolt axles are only marginally stronger than the 5 bolt. So, go ahead and put that stuff in if you want to, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it's a major upgrade in terms of strength. And do not make the mistake of thinking that the GTR subframe is better than the one that you have. In the R33/4 and S14/5 cars, the suspension geometry was significantly improved over the R32 & S13 era cars. And the S chassis cars don't have HICAS, which is worth getting rid of for any car, but certainly good to get rid of for drag.

Why? There's no point. It's not superior to the one you have now.

First you need to fix the subframe. The anti-squat geometry on R32s is the enemy of drag traction. After you've replaced it with an S14 subframe, put a full set of adjustable arms into it and ensure that they are dialled in for minimal camber and as little bump steer as possible. Then speak to MCA about some custom valved coilovers.

Nah. Typical 5V signal working against the seriously high input impedance of any decent device that wants to look at that signal will flow a poofteenth of f**k all current. if some arsehat is responsible for the design of the input on the device, however, and it sinks a reasonable amount of current, then all bets are off.

99% of R32 headlights are perfectly clear. Being glass, as mentioned above, they never get cloudy.

Then charge right ahead. Just put the sandwich plate directly onto the block.

Um, what? Take off the RB26 oil heat exchanger and replace with an RB30 oil filter stud. Same as it's always been. Sensor ports and supplies for V-Cam etc are simply a matter of making do with what is on the sandwich plate and using a T or 2 if needed.

Following up on this AGAIN for more posterity. After 6 months and not very many road kilometers, the "self-lubricating" teflon lined bearings started talking. And they rapidly got a lot worse. Over a distance of probably only 500km a little squawk turned into a major cacophony. The weather has been almost exclusively dry too, so it's not as if they got all wet every day and rusted. Took them apart and found that the outer rod end on the strong arm part was very tight and marked where it had been galling the outer race. The other two rod ends on the other part of the arm were also a little tight and a little marked, but not as bad. The bearings installed in the inner end of the strong arm appear to be COM10T press in rod ends (2 off) with an ally crush tube in between. A reasonable enough idea, except that these are rods ends just like the others, but don't get any weather/dust protection. So while the other rods ends have boots that do at least something, the COM10Ts are exposed. These bearings were all much harder to rotate than they were when new. I'm thinking that maybe some sort of rolling element bearing with grease seals might be worth considering on these. So I cleaned everything as well as I could, sprayed teflon spray into the COM10Ts, whacked a lot of lithium grease into the other rod ends and they're silent again. This may not be the right thing to do, but we'll find out, won't we.

I am still not happy with you. You do not need those seats in that car. You know someone who needs them more!

Too small to be useful. These would only work as the 2nd stage of a 2 tank system (methinks).

Close enough. :D

S13 same same with R32. You could always buy Hardrace from Oz and get them sent over. They are somewhat cheaper than Whiteline (which trades heavily on its name) but at least as good. Just depends on what the shipping might cost you.

They won't be R34 GT-T calipers. Those suit a 310mm rotor. They have longer legs than the R33 calipers. I haven't seen a caliper adapter that will space those out to only 324mm. The adapters shown look like all the usual ones that are used to put the R33 (296mm rotor) calipers onto 324mm rotors. And following from that, the 290mm rotors listed above would have to 296mm rotors, as there are no 290mm rotors for Skylines.

Yuh, if it was a factory ECU I would have said TPS adjustment 100%. Because it's aftermarket ECU, there is nothing stopping you/the tuner from adjusting it either in the ECU or in the engine bay. In other words, the tuner shouldn't be having any trouble with the new TPS if he set it up as he installed it, like he should have.

If it's bent, it'll be the subframe. Usually they get modified by kerbs. Otherwise, I echo the suggestion to use Hardrace rubber bushed adjustables. They do solids as well, so if that's what you find, keep looking.

Um . No. Just no. Neo DET head has about 51cc chamber volume. Vanilla has about 62 or something similar. Jam a Neo head onto a vanilla bottom end and the compression ratio goes through the roof. This is a known fact. Neo pistons have much lower crown height because the chamber is flatter because that's one of he big changes made to make the Neo heads (on various engines). It was about reducing the surface area of metal facing the combustion event.

Um...that's exactly what I meant. but when people are talking about swapping a head on to obtain some perceived advantage, it is almost always the case that they are talking about putting it onto their existing block, including the pistons. So I was 100% correct.

And the next point is that you shouldn't put a Neo head on a vanilla block without considering the effect of 15% less volume in the combustion chamber. Alright if you plan on using E85 only.