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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I've done essentially the same as steppa, with the same result.
  2. GTSBoy
    3.5L > 2.6 L. More sense would be to swap in VQ37HR + boost.
  3. GTSBoy
    Shafts are piss easy. Fall out from the inside. Hubs/splines are obviously much more trouble. You need to dismantle all this to find out what is wrong with it before you go buying stuff though.
  4. GTSBoy
    Could be. The splines on the end of the shaft or in the hub are also possible. Just about all of that stuff is getting sloppy in these old jallopies now.
  5. GTSBoy
    ^ This.
  6. GTSBoy
    Go right ahead. I'm fairly confident I could outrun one on foot across an intersection.
  7. GTSBoy
    Changing plugs/gaps will not affect tune. Stumble on idle is usually a vacuum leak.
  8. GTSBoy
    No. A 1957 VW beetle would be faster.
  9. GTSBoy
    It seems like most of your cylinders are OK and a couple are little softer. There's a million things that could cause those differences.
  10. GTSBoy
    It's not rocket surgery. Work it out yourself. The PS circuit is dead simple. There are 3-4 things in it (depending whether you put the cooler into the return or not). Just hook them up. Following a DIY that does not work for your gear is a fool's errand.
  11. GTSBoy
    Fuel pump. AFM. FPR. Dirty injector. Blocked fuel filter. These are the first things to check. Same as in the 500000000000 other threads that start this way.
  12. GTSBoy
    How are you measuring the voltage? DMM? If so, then don't. You need an analog multimeter or a scope of some sort. DMMs can't see that sort of PWM signal. They're too slow.
  13. GTSBoy
    Bulb. I shall also refrain from saying passively aggressive nasty things. But really, this should be obvious. Have you even opened the bonnet to see? Dammit, I failed at avoiding saying passively aggressive things. Oh well.
  14. GTSBoy
    Um. What? The HICAS pressure line is completely separate from the power steering. When I did exactly what you're doing (but with a Neo), I simply removed everything to do with HICAS (the thing on the frame rail is a pair of solenoid valves, not a pump). With everything HICAS removed, the power steering pump simply connects to the rack via the original line (adapted at the pump end owing to being a different pump) and the return from the rack goes where it always did. That's it. And don't loop the cooler. Plumb it into the return line. You need the cooler.
  15. GTSBoy
    All the volts.
  16. GTSBoy
    I'd suggest a sticky piston on the LHF caliper.
  17. GTSBoy
    PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33. It is VERY old tech now though. If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better. Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install. Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though. Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car. Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options. It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.
  18. GTSBoy
    Yup. Options for tuning R33s do not sensibly include random "chips". Options above are to be considered.
  19. GTSBoy
    You know, the wiring diagrams for the R32 GTR have been available in the workshop manual on-line for about 20 years. The temp sensor is almost certainly a thermistor. So why don't you grab a decade box, some wires and the wiring diagram and start plugging different resistance values (starting high) into the air-con box until you get what you need? If you go a little further you could work out more than one point on the T-R curve and work out what sort of thermistor you would need to replace the missing one so the air-con works properly.
  20. GTSBoy
    I tried to understand it too. Gave up.
  21. GTSBoy
    FFS. Let this thread die!
  22. GTSBoy
    Defo 9:1. Even higher if possible, with E85. Cams keep gentle if you're not going to replace all that weak as shit SR gear on top of the motor. Cheapskate the ex manifold. Put the money saved towards some head work. A little attention in the ports will be worth more than bigger cams, better manifold, etc.
  23. GTSBoy
    Change the speedo head. Speed signal is +/- 1V sawtooth signal from sender to speedo head. Speedo head electronics convert that to 0-5V squarewave for the ECU etc. If there is no display or output at low speeds but it works at high speeds, then it's probably not a broken wire or loose connection. it is some dodgy electronics. You could take it to an instrument specialist. You know, like we used to do back before the internet.
  24. GTSBoy
    Well, yeah.
  25. GTSBoy
    Engine damper https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JJR-Engine-Damper-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-GTR/371514228212?hash=item567ff93df4:g:2DAAAOSwNyFWeMlm
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