KiwiRS4T

Are you sure the RB26 block is in good nick? How much would it take to repair your 25 block?

OK have 2 more R34 pinouts - one as PDF and one as text document Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf R34 pinouts text version.odt

Wastegate set up on my Stagea - welded to turbo not (Sinco) manifold:

Commentator is speaking Dutch so Netherlands or Belgium? To OP; try disconnecting the switch to Attessa pump (see below) or you could just tape over the light! Have you pulled the 2 4wd fuses (one in the cabin fuse block behind the coin tray and one under the bonnet)?: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

6 Boost should be tailor making the wastegate mounting for you and should know what is required for your car.

If you know a good tuner who knows PFC just get a safe tune. The Impul ecu was tuned in Japan for Japanese fuel - your PFC can be tuned to match the fuel you are buying .

Before you pull the head off you could do a leak down test which should show whether compression is getting past the valves or the rings.

Try these Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls R34 Pinouts with wire colours.ods

Its getting the turbo off without removing the engine. Can be done ...have a search there are a few tips (no I haven't done it).

The only argument I can see for buying a built motor is time. it usually takes twice as long as you think and then a bit more to build your own (sometimes years!) but if you are not in a hurry then probably go with your own build.

Um but do they glow red when you are going backwards? Would be illegal and confusing.

Your old ECU should be fine. You definitely need a better MAP sensor and after that your tuner should be able to spot any roadblocks. You say your fuel system is fine so have you got at least a 3.5in exhaust (4in better) and have you upgraded your ignition system? What is your engine revving to? Can you post up some dyno charts? BTW 694 (is that 4 wheel hp?) is not too shabby. Especially since a quick look online suggests they are only good for 550HP??! OK the twin scroll 400 - 600 hp?!

You have a new engine...try using 5W 30 Motul or something similar. ( Did you put restrictors in ? Will not change the pressure but will guard against emptying the sump).

^^^what he said...you have a GM unit which I think measures narrowband and wideband. Give your Haltech supplier a ring.

The older ones were Mitsubishi made. I don't know anyone who has rebuilt one although It must be possible. People just buy new or recond replacements.

But if you really only need 2 splitfires can you not buy them new?

Putting your foot down to overtake is driving normally. If there was an easy fix it would have been done. Heaps of 350s for sale. Or here's a cheap (high mileage) 250 turbo. Worth a look! https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1502957226.htm?rsqid=d420fcf5ec444b37902a3f4b6b4da3b6

Have you read the first 3 pages of this thread? Next read this thread:

I would be inclined to give the GTR M/C a go. "Specced for the Brembos" sounds more scientific than it probably is. I used a GTR M/C on my AWD Stagea with 330mm brakes on the front and 2 pot GTR calipers on the rear and it pulled up fine at any speed. Incidentally when I rebuilt the M/C it was with a ZX kit.

Get an Evo

There is a whole thread on engines that have made over 300kw unopened i.e. on stock rods - so unless you are hell bent on spending money you could pull your engine apart and measure up to see if you could just do rings and bearings. If you do want to do a full rebuild then you may as well read up as much as you can, watch a few videos and see what you need to do. It is not rocket science but you do need to pay attention to precise measurement, absolute cleanliness and doing things in the right order. If you take your time I am sure you can do a good job!

Not sure what you mean by K frame but in general the AWDs are the same and the RWD are different from the AWD.

Lowest price $70 the pair.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-genuine-nissan-skyline-gts25-rb25de-011995-p-192.html although I think you can just get a universal sensor from Repco but you will have to wire it yourself.