Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'r33gtst' or 'skyline'.
-
Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out.
-
Over two years of ownership I thought I'd make a build thread as i don't have enough procrastination in my life as it is. up until this car I hadn't owned a car more than 6 months before selling it due to being bored of it or finding something else. Originally bought this car back in November 2012 as a means for a quick profit. The plan being to fix the little problems, swap the wheels and sell it. However as with most thing in life it did not go to plan... This is how it was when i bought it coilovers with chopped springs 1/2 turbo converted lenso D1r 18x11.5 +12 with 235/40/18 Horrible interior missing parts. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/crskmd/lensoboth_zps38b51943.jpg First thing to go was the enormous wheels which just were not to my taste and did not suit the car in my opinion. in the mean time i put the lenso on my trike haha http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/crskmd/IMG_0062_zps2ba980d1.jpg Bought some old school work wheels for $70 to roll on while I sold the lensos and bought another set. also put some stock struts with lowered springs in. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/crskmd/IMG_0068_zps4ae40b61.jpg Swapped the lensos for a few sets of wheels and cash my way. Included in the swapped sets was a set of R32 GTR rims http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/crskmd/IMG_0071_zps0975bede.jpg Due to the excessive guard rolling that had been required to “fit” the 18’s and the ill-fitting +30mm vented fiberglass guards the gtr wheels sat a fair way inside. which is kinda funny on 4 door http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff130/crskmd/IMG_0088_zpsea8bf86a.jpg here is where i will leave it for the first post and will steadily update to present day over the next weeks -
Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance! -
This is a very much loved and well looked after car! - Regularly serviced and maintained - Smooth and reliable to drive - Premium model with Bose speakers, suede/leather seats, and dual climate control - Kenwood Double din DMX7522DABS stereo with USB Mirroring, Android Auto/Apple Carplay, DABS radio - 6 Cylinders 3.5L Engine -Triptronic sports automatic - 11000kms - Pearl White - Registered until August - Small fixable dent on boot and several scuff marks/paint chips. -
Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
-
Hello all, I don't see any PDF online of this service manual being in OCR, so I'm posting a link of one I made. OCR makes it so much easier to find things, being able to search the document with Adobe Reader. (old link removed). new link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B495mmNsnU6uYzAwLV9fVW9WREk/view?resourcekey=0-Qa9Lfekqc5AnkoecCkM5xg It's 489 pages long. -
-
-
Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300 IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride. Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900 Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details. -
For Sale: Rare Nissan Skyline R33 Genuine Factory Owners Manual Covers all models between 93-96 These manuals are a true rarity, as many were discarded upon importation. This rare opportunity that's not just practical but also a potential investment. Has been in storage for many years Price:$300 Located: Melbourne (Western Suburbs) Can post Australia Wide for an extra $25 Call or text on 0432062780
-
Introducing the ultimate accessory for Nissan Skyline R32 GTR enthusiasts - the Rare Optional Knee Pads! They are in impeccable condition, for being 30 plus years old these knee pads offer a whole new level of comfort during spirited driving. What makes these knee pads truly special is their rarity - a complete set like this is Rare to come by making them a true gem for any Skyline collector Or someone who wants to add a incredibly rare Factory option to there car or simply restoring there car to complete OEM Spec These knee pads are hard to come by. Have been in storage for a very long time. Hence there preserved condition These will also fit the R32 GTS-T however they came of the GTR Model! Price:$2700 Located: Melbourne Call or text on 0432062780
-
I will not respond to, "Is it still available?" I am the first Australian owner of this magnificent car. I have always serviced this 3.5 litre V6 with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil. New Battery and wipers. Good Falken tyres, It has Cold Dual Zone A/C to keep you cool in summer & a Toasty Heater to keep you cozy in winter. Auxiliary DRL/Indicators to make yourself seen & Dash Mat. It has Multiple Airbags to keep you & your family safe, ABS, Traction & Stability control to keep you out of trouble. Smart key to get you in quick, Side & Rear Cameras to make parking a breeze. This silky smooth car has been a pleasure to own & drive. Averages 8.7 - 9l/100 km. Selling as I have upgraded. Message me for more info. If it's listed here, it's available.
-
hello First time poster on any sort of forum so please be nice! looking on advice/experiences people have had with pulsar turbos more specifically the 3576 or 3076, I’m building a r31 with a rb25det series 2 and wanting 300kw, I’m looking for a turbo that won’t come on until low to mid 3k rpm and full boost before or around 4K, only mods that may affect response that I have are top Mount mani and a FFP, thanks in advance
-
Hi new to the skyline and car scene. I just picked up an r33 with a rb25det engine. I need to recirculate the stock bov but I'm at a loss. I've done a fair bit of research on it but can't seem to get my head around it anyone brisbane based who could help for cash or know any shops that could fit me in quick. Cheers
-
Up for sale is a brand new set of ISR Long Tube Headers, part number IS-SSHD-VQ35 for a 350Z/370Z/V36/V35 NISSAN SKYLINE Comes with the o2 harness extensions (early Gen Z33/V35 only, see the CZP link). More info can be found here: https://conceptzperformance.com/isr-performance-hgc-long-tube-headers-vq35de-vq35hr-vq37vhr-nissan-350z-370z-infiniti-g35-g37-is-sshd-vq35_p_32339.php https://www.isrperformance.com/isr-performance-hgc-long-tube-headers-vq35de-hr-350z-g35-370z/ This right now shipped to Brisbane through CZP using PayPal is $1106 USD or $1725 AUD. Price I'm selling for is $1600 ONO cash on pick up, Eight Mile Plains 😃 #VQ35DE #VQ37VHR #VQ35HR #370Z #350Z #V35 #V36 #Z34 #Z33 #Nissan #Skyline #JDM
-
I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV -
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
-
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
-
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
-
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
-
From the album: My R32 GTS-T
-
Anyone had this issue before?: i was trying to bleed the attessa (r33 gtr vspec) and the strange issue that I have is that the bleed mode of the pump does not work. Ive done it 2 years ago and it was working. so when i disconnect the white connector under the dash the pump only starts if i turn ignition on, but when opening the bleeders it wont start on loss of pressure. if the connector is connected the pump won't do anything no matter what. also strange is that there is only very little fluid coming through the diff bleeder, as there is no pressure. On the other hand there is good pressure on the transfercase bleeder. I have no ECU connected, never touched any wiring on the attessa sytem and fluid level is ok. anyone can help?
-
Used OEM S1 front bar and S1 front lip for BCNR33 (62022-24U10, 96015-24U10) $1750 Bar and lip are damaged and therefore price is negotiable, so offer away! Brand new through Nissan's heritage program, expect to pay well over $2,500 for a new bar and lip. Damage is as follows: - holes from canards - heavy scrape on right side of lip - medium scrape on left side of lip - medium impact on right side (close to intercooler, check photos) - mesh coming off Damage is repairable! Would still be cheaper to fix and paint this one over buying a brand new one from Nissan! Bar is currently painted in K23 silver. Will NOT come with all mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)! No indicators! Pick up Casey area! -
As stated, looking to hopefully acquire some R32 GTR Sills Parts: 76412-05u36 (Sill RH) and 76413-05u36 (Sill LH) I know these are becoming hard as hell to find, so any help with this would be appreciated too.
-
Hi all to the community, I am new in the JDM scene and i am so exited! i would like some advice from all and possibly what i can do, will try to add as much as detail in for everyone ! I have recently purchased a r32 gts4 skyline with a rb26 in it. so the previous owner had it for 6 years and always serviced ect it every 5000kms, the engine now has 180 xxx kms on it. back to the question, he had issues with the twins so he removed them and bought a single turbo garret ec-1 a/r7 - xjm 62406 and a manifold and wastegate to suit. he then lost interest and the car sat for 6 months. i have purchased the car like this and went to 2 tuning shops these are my options 1) tune shop 1- chuck n5s 2860s turbos, aftermarket manifold, dump pipe + tune 2) tune shop 2- bring the car in (with the twins again) and they will have a look at it because it might be the load limit and the turbos might be fine. they also said i might have to look into a rebuild as its at 180 000kms. 3) ???? thanks everyone for reading this! i hope all is having a lovely day / night
