Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,517
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Drag strip, what you're doing is guessing at best. x amount of fuel injected does not equal y power... period!
  2. turn down the boost
  3. (feel free to ignore as this is just a guess)... perhaps the backlash isnt' adjusted properly, i.e. too tight and it's causing a fair amount of friction thus cooking up the fluid... I run the Nulon 80W140 LSD oil and it barely breathes much.. I do get some vapour like others have mentioned after a good day of punishing the shit box at Wakefield. Last track day, manged to do 84 laps
  4. get a RB20DET ECU, have it modified with the Nismo board and use the Green LED output to control the VCT. Are you in Australia? I can organise this to be done through Nistune at a lower cost than RRP.
  5. I got to meet Tim and the team at WTAC... awesome team effort, love it! Car doesnt' dose though LOL
  6. I have a mate with them, said it still squeals abit after all the copper grease has dried up or flaked off... initially it shuts up the pads squealing like a wh0re lol....
  7. adms15 always on point
  8. 24mm 24mm, wanted 27mm 24mm at the time using the SydneyKid methodology with super thick ARBs and shit soft spring rates. Guess that's good for street use, but track wise was aids.
  9. 10W60 Castrol Edge? I would use 15W50 Penrite Racing
  10. there's your problem
  11. factory pipe work.. could be leak somewhere.. Are you running any wanky BOV? or is everything stock except the turbo? Also it might be overboosting because the turbo has a larger actuator on it.. not ECU related.
  12. (unrelated response). I once was all over the suepr thick ARBs and all.... now wished I didn't bother upgrading them.. I have both my mine on the softest settings for track use.. the ARBs just made the car super duper twitchy and sketchy. Even MCA said to use stock. Because I'm stubborn and didn't listen I bought thick ones, and kept snapping the mounts that hold the links up front lol
  13. However I highly suggest you sell the twins and drop in a single, with a divided rear housing and a proper twin scroll manifold. Single = more low down, better response, better transient, better top end, less plumbing, better heat management.
  14. yeah doesn't mean shit... put in a new fuel pump, it's cheaper than a new motor.
  15. EFR7670 or GTX3576 in TS flavour.. ... wait just read that the "chosen" has now turned into you actually have them. My suggestion is to sell the PowerFC, sell the Nismo AFM get a real ECU + get a real FMIC like a Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm OR 100mm (which I can help you with).
  16. take a photo of your turbo setup, and focus on the intake pipe @miskyline94
  17. btw.... the speed vs. RPM looks off... car probably more responsive than what the dyno graph says!
  18. fuuarkkk x 10000 Congrats man! Rear end wise, get some traction rods and extend them by about 15mm each side, then toe in the rear 1mm each side. Will help heaps with keeping the traction down (this reduces the camber ramp & toe out on squat).
  19. I streamed it Friday at work and went there on Saturday. Ended up at the bar area drinking and watching the stream anyhow lol.. You can't see much standing around. Unless it's the drift during the night. Brappppppppppppppp
  20. He needs a Albins gearbox too.
  21. Hope that pump can supply more than 3 bar worth of fuel pressure. If not, kiss that motor goodbye.
  22. Torque is split 50/50 across the wheels where as a VLSD at best is doing 30/70 thus you're frying one wheel more than the other. I barely can spin 2nd on my car with a fair bit of power where as dudes with less power are frying 3rds on the stock VLSD. Still have to do those screen grabs for you off Nistune, haven't forgotten just super busy when I get home
×
×
  • Create New...