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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. At about 50s in this video you can see a (Toyota) slave stroking. They all need to do about the same travel to release the clutch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p77NuzSraUQ
  2. Don't assume the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same between FWD and RWD. The access to fit the bolts in is not always the same on FWDs. F'rigzample, I'm pretty sure the FWD & RWD SR20s are not the same and require fiddling to swap.
  3. Do you know if the RWD VQs will happily bolt to the FWD VQ gearboxen? I was going to ask "since when has there ever been a VQ powered manual Maxima?" and then I looked on Wiki and was surprised to see that Nissan actually made some. Seems totally out of character/market segment for a Maxima though. I wonder how many are actually out there in the wild?
  4. How much movement are you getting at the slave piston on a full pedal stroke? Reason I ask is that failing master cylinder or slave cylinder is just as likely to be the cause as anything else.
  5. It is just a dumb canister though, isn't it? In which case, anything of similar volume with a hose barb on it can do the job. An EFI fuel filter, for example (with one of the hose barbs sealed off by your dodgy means of choice). Or you could make one up out of a short bit of ~2" ally tube and some ally sheet if you're a fab nut.
  6. To be fair, the majority of the length of the run under the engine is hard pipe and there is only rubber at the ends. If it's a hose, it should be possible to do it without getting the whole engine up, but the one down at the rack end might be a pain in the arse. If it's the hard line that's split, then engine out/up, for absolute sure.
  7. Springs are not dampers and dampers are not springs.
  8. Go ask a car air-con place. That's what I would do here in Oz if I weren't surrounded by Jap import spares shops.
  9. Should drive fine. That's the whole point of having the curves for the different AFMs ready to go. but it will need to be tuned before you put any significant load on it, because it will not be right enough. As to the wires.....google is your friend. There would have to be thousands of posts on the topic just on this forum alone.
  10. You can't do it yourself unless you have the full vacuum evacuator rig. You just need to take it to an air-con workshop and get it done. Trust me.
  11. I described the "direct feed" above. That's the way it works. Wire it up like that and it will either work, or something is broken.
  12. Many of us suggest changing the whole engine, or the whole car, because we did the piecemeal upgrade and learnt that it would have been better to bite the bullet and just swap.
  13. 130000 kays! Hah! Even if you see one, don't believe the hype. Stock! Even more Hah! Have a look at the fore sale ads on here for some guidance of what sort of things are trading hands amongst the people who know more or less what they're worth. That's the only broad price guide you're going to get. After that, you will either be looking at a car which is so nice that you'll pay whatever inflated price the guy is asking for to make sure you get it, or you'll be looking at one of the 11ty bungers out there that have at least something wrong with them and trying to work out what you're willing to pay to take on the problems associated with it. For some explanation of why I don't give you any price guidance. I bought my R32 last century for just over 20k. A couple of years ago it was worth maybe $7k. Nowadays, some people will tell you that an example like mine that is well looked after and presents well is going to be able to get >$20k again. That's unprovable unless I sell it. Finding another example like mine that's for sale is not going to be easy, as there are so few R32s still circulating, let alone in decent condition. You can only base the >20k guess on what the normal stock are trading for. R34s are not quite in that basket yet, being 5+ years newer, but really, it can't be long before the same is going to be broadly true.
  14. 2 wires! The speed sensor will not work with 1 wire. I do not know why I have to say this in every single one of these threads. It's a fricken AC signal.
  15. This is not true. The speed signal starts out at the speed sensor as a +/-1 volt sawtooth (roughly AC) signal generated by the rotation of the sensor. The 2 wires associated with this go to the cluster, where the speedo reads it and displays it. The speedo head also converts the signal to a 0-5v square wave pulse that it puts onto the bus. The ECU looks for that signal. So do the other CUs that use it. The fact that an ABS or other CU is not present should not cause it to not work. The ECU will certainly be chucking a code if the other CUs it expects to hear from are not present. You need to Nistune the ECU to be able to fix that. If I had to guess, I would say that your loom transplant has done something undesirable.
  16. The theory of uneven power strokes making the engine less smooth doesn't really hold water. And the idea of tuning out lean cylinders only works if you put 6x TCs or 6x O2 sensors on the runners to see the effect otherwise you're "fixing" something with no evidence.
  17. Um.....You'll need a very friendly roadworthy to get that registered in Victoriastan. I count somewhat more than the max. 2 permitted inlet system modifications there.
  18. Then I must be a real bastard. Mine works. Has always worked.
  19. If it has code rings inboard of the stub axles, and 2x sensors pointed at them and wires connecting those sensors to the loom.....then yes.
  20. ? Oh. Sorry. Still the wrong spelling!
  21. Disconnect its plug and see how it runs.
  22. I wouldn't worry about the adapters (although there are some doubts about their road-legalness). They're strong enough. The fact that you really have to change the master to get the piston areas to work is an extra hassle. Cheap aftermarket kits are less hassle.....but they're not Brembos either. Hmmm. that's not real useful.. Perhaps I mean to say that if you have to have Brembos, then I'd prefer to stick with GTR ones. Or look to Z33/4 era stuff.
  23. Probably either killed the AFM or saturated the air filter.
  24. My god! What a fantastic geek. Buy a Skyline. You'll fit in fine here!
  25. Well, well. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281692-why-nobody-makes-front-upper-arms-that-sit-further-backwards/
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