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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Damn that's gaids. Lucky my R33 shit box modified floating barge is with NRMA Vintage and it cost less than 1/3 the cost of my stock Mazda 3 SP25 lol. R33 is insured for nearly the same price as the SP25. Makes no sense.
  2. $330? come on, cooling pro $186 delivered, gpi ones even less. nothing half arsed with a high flow with stock ecu at less than stock boost. up to you, but you seem like a stubborn person so not sure why you're even asking for advice. put it another stock turbo so it blows up again, waste of time and money
  3. narh... too many wankers and yes.. like others said turbo blew LOL... head is coming off, let's see if we can do 400kW+ on a stock bottom end, Edward Lee's Special Edition 3000000000000000km motor and have it do many Powahz Cruz laps around Wakefield without it going bang. Nice work bench, ize jelly... I moved to a town house so my work bench is the ground now
  4. Run a highflow with the stock actuator and completely remove the factory electronic bleed valve which will give you at most 0.5bar of boost. Wise words from STATUS.. he happens to be one of Australia's tuners. Anyhow, I still vote you replace your FMIC.. bits of metal in there could end up in your motor and cost you thousands instead of $150.
  5. You'll need to pick all the fragments out of that fmic before your motor ingests all the fragments and you'll spend more than $150 replacing that fmic because a motor rebuild or swap I'm sure will cost at least 10x to 20x more than a replacement eBay FMIC.
  6. Take it out, also throw your FMIC in the bin too and drop in another one. Send it to HyperGear for a rebuild.
  7. They're gay is my response, even 100x gay if it's a under powered car or 10000x gay if you're running a stock turbo.
  8. I would just throw on 350Z Brembo fronts with good rotors and pads such as Intima SR or Type-D for circuit work and call it a day. I say 350Z Brembo fronts because they're cheaper than R32/33/34 Brembos but are the same just with a slight different offset, ie you need to use 350Z rotors which for some reason are also cheaper than GTR ones haha. Oh btw.. I can help with rotors and brake pads.
  9. wow your car looks great! better use that clear film shit on your front end so you dont' get rock chips on the track LSD will be day and night difference, you'll actually have traction!
  10. that's not going to do much, all you're resetting are the long term fuel trims
  11. If you ever a set of Hel lines, I can do them for $139 delivered for F&R
  12. Needs speed density conversion on the E9 ECU
  13. I think more so over spun the turbo and too many track days, kept running it at 1.7bar I told Tao how much boost it was running and he's still pretty happy to fix it on warranty - now that's service! Sure do, they're advertised much higher on trak-life.com/shop but during December we're offering free delivery for front and rear set of SR Pads for $199 or Type-D Pads for $269 Jsut PM me or e-mail me at johnny (AT) trak-life.com with your name, delivery address, phone number and I'll shot you back an invoice if you're interested
  14. found out the hard way, also fuel light was on... managed to drive super sedate to Yagoona then after that my turbo exploded LOL
  15. jealous all your cars are working and ready to race.. I just blew my turbo LOL. Mr Blah, you interested in Intima brake pads?
  16. does it dose hard yet?
  17. Save you the headache, also because the Adaptronic is semi sequential injection there will be a level of "thumping" from the fuel system. I had to install an additional fuel pulsation damper by Radium to suppress the fuel pulsations to get full control of my injectors. Had leaning out issues in low load, and high rpm areas due to the pulsation not being dampened.
  18. Did you update the firmware on your ECU and then re-selected the trigger settings again? because there's something funny with the new Eugene software that screws up everything. If that's the case, download your map, save it. Load up a base map from the install directory, then re-import your fuel/ignition map and manually change all the other values such as injector scaling, idle control settings, cold start, IAT compensation, etc. Tedious process, but I had the same issues with 2x cars already. It's weird the trigger settings originally would say R33 RB25DET blah blah.. then you upgrade the firmware, move onto Eugene and now your trigger settings say "custom", when trying to change it back to what it's supposed to be.. boom car won't start.
  19. Get a better regulator, those Sard ones aren't good at dampening the fuel pulsation also they're not E85 friendly. I always install Turbosmart FPR1200 FPRs on cars I work on.
  20. JDMyard gets, but their prices are shit too unless you have a lawn mower built by them.
  21. I don't recall doing anything when fitting mine
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