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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Not necessarily. Its a push in fitting so the thread on the outside could be anything....-10 in the example linked above.
  2. Yes the cheaper one will work fine but you will have to make the connections yourself as it lacks a plug.
  3. There seems to be an undiminished supply of Skylines in NZ. In general Kiwis keep their cars on the road for more years than other countries partly because of poverty and partly because many people learn to fix their own cars. Skylines are still being imported privately and by dealers. On the other hand there are reports that many young people do not aspire to owning a car and don't even learn to drive preferring to live their lives on electronic media.
  4. Sinco will post to you (NZ $ lower right now).
  5. Thanks! Hard to get back to back hard data as people generally make a number of changes at once...
  6. I would guess a GTR or Stagea one would be more likely.
  7. Don't know about the fan but in general cooling system works best if you can retain (or adapt) the OEM shroud.
  8. I don't have an RB26 to look at but here is a schematic diagram from the R32 GTR manual:
  9. From GTR UK: Standard Nissan cover produces 900 KgF Clamp forceNismo 30210 RSR40 produces 1050 KgFNismo 30210 RS581 produces 1200 KgF
  10. Just ask your tuner if he thinks there is another 40kw in it. he will have a good idea.
  11. The only person who could give you a straight yes or no is someone who has tried it and I can't imagine why anyone would since as you have already pointed out Nissan Consult is not compatible with any OBD standards.
  12. If its already noisy and you don't want to use Motul I would suggest Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W 140
  13. Your R33 n/a probably breathes as much as it can handle. Without spending mega bucks you are not going to get much more out of it. If you can get or have made a set of extractors (headers) that will give you a little more speed and sound like a lot more...
  14. No one knows exactly what is wrong with your car. Stop obsessing about the dump - it is entirely possible that a fault has developed in your car that has nothing to do with your dump. Start reading some of the links that Glynn has kindly provided.
  15. You would have to follow the line to see where it goes. I can see HKS printed on it so maybe you have an aftermarket BOV or boost controller?
  16. I can't tell you what thread you have but if you go to an engineering supply store or a hydraulic hose and fittings shop they should be able to tell you what thread it is and supply a suitable fitting.
  17. Yep all Skylines are old and slow - if you want to keep up with the Honda Civics and other modern cars you have to be ready to spend big.
  18. Problem originally was leaking coolant - now it may be that it needs more bleeding to get all of the air out of the system. Is the engine light on all the time or only when it gets hot? How many km has your car done?
  19. Gear box is the same drive shafts are the same c/w and pinion are different ratios.
  20. Your MAP sensor is measuring airflow for timing and fuelling purposes. If you want your ecu to control boost you need to ditch your Profec EBC and get a Mac valve.
  21. I vote for ECU control. My car with Link, Mac valve and Synapse 50mm wastegate (and tuned by Soichi):
  22. Been a while since I saw a stock set up but ...Boost signal comes from the nipple on the intercooler pipe just above the letter A to a T - one line (C) goes to the bottom of the boost solenoid valve and the other (B) goes to the turbo actuator. Originally there is a restrictor in the line but can't remember just where sorry. The line from the top of the boost solenoid goes to the bov return pipe. Not sure why you have a red line going over to the plenum. The other lines from the plenum go to the BOV and one to the FPR
  23. Email these two for a price shipped to the UK: http://www.natrad.com.au/ https://www.radiators.co.nz/
  24. 360rwkw sounds pretty good but more may be possible. I would just ask the tuner to keep increasing boost until 1. EGTs get too high or 2. detonation approaches or 3. It stops making more power.
  25. Sure it was the right shifter (i.e. GTR AWD model)?
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