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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. I don't believe that will do anything but if you are hell bent on it go ahead and report back. A cheaper option would be to put another 400ml in each run. You can decide whether to recycle what comes out or not. The real fix is a couple of 1/2 in sump breathers with one draining back to the sump. And ideally you have a 2L catch can properly baffled and vented to the turbo intake.
  2. Stay off the road for a month (or borrow your Mum's Toyota).
  3. That's an expensive set of nice wheels. Don't spoil it by putting stupidly narrow stretched tyres like some people do! Something like 285 35 may do the job. If the tyres stick out too much make the guards bigger don't shrink the tyres!
  4. Try Mark - Apache Panelbeaters 17 Ashfield Rd Glenfield 09 444 3013
  5. Pull the front drive shaft
  6. You might be able to fit a clutch master cylinder booster from a GTR
  7. Link + Synapse wastegate + 3 port mac valve
  8. Well its 570kw to be precise - may not have the pickup you want in a street car. . Go back 3 pages and you will find a massive thread on Precision turbos
  9. Its an Aussie company. Get instructions here: http://www.hybrid-power.com/installation or give them a ring Australia :+61 2 9620 7388
  10. There you go. Return BOV to stock or plumb yours in if it is possible. MAF is measuring air coming in and adjusting fuel to suit but some air is escaping via BOV instead of beng recirculated as per the stock set up - hence running rich.
  11. check the maf plug connections
  12. Reverse flushing with a hose will dislodge more cr@p than just relying on gravity.
  13. Depends on what you're looking for I guess. Do you have a brand name or a pic or a drawing?
  14. Had an HKS speed limit defeat thing on my first S1 - don't know how it works but don't think it has any effect on AFRs.
  15. Since you have mentioned the ECU, if you can sell the PFC ...get yourself a Link and forget the MAFs and future proof your build. And I can recommend the good old US made Synapse wastegate (unless you go with one of the internally wastegated singles).
  16. A lot of your cost is not down to converting to a single. 500AWKW is never going to be cheap.
  17. Pull the fuel line off and see what comes out when you turn the key on. Your pump could be stuffed. Unplug the MAF and see if it starts.Make sure the plug is firmly and squarely in the ECU. Compression test. Actually put the compression test near the top.
  18. Give the thread some CRC and see if you can tighten the nut. Although it looks as though the top bush is missing??
  19. It wasn't the 20 psi that killed them. You need a good build or sound stock engine and then if you are going to push it a top quality tune is a must. Finally drive with a modicum of sense and observation. Having said that engines can let go unexpectedly for a variety of reasons.
  20. Borrow a non electronic boost gauge and hook it up with a line through the door jamb or window to see what boost you are actually making. Set up your boost controller properly. If you think there is something wrong with your MAF either borrow a known good one or clean the element and resolder the connections. And put the stock air box back while you still have it.
  21. You never get back the money you spent on a car - better let someone else take the loss - but look at the owner and the car to see if it has been thrashed to death.
  22. the one in my first post - cut and paste the link into your browser and scrolldown to see the video www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo
  23. So its a 2wd manual? That makes it easier to modify if you're so inclined. The latest Link computers can run the 4 camshafts so time for a big single turbo!
  24. I gather you haven't watched the video. Have a look at it - questions of response etc are thoroughly discussed.,
  25. I take it your car is not a V-Spec? In that case you will not have the computer for controlling the LSD. Code 34 is: 34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit
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