GTSBoy

I just put the GKTech ones on. Search for my recent (past couple of months) posts on the topic.

Um, 3 litre twin cam 12:1 compression and E85, and you only want 160kW? I assume that's at the wheels, but it's still a pretty low goal. I mean, a stock 7M-GE was 142 kW (at the fly) way back in the 80s. The 25DE Neo is 147kW at the fly. You're only talking about 50 extra kW at the treads with an extra 20% displacement and cams and porting and alcohol. I'd be aiming for the moon. 9000rpm, Weber pattern (or similar) ITBs in a fibreglass airbox (think Pipercross), 280+° and as much lift as can be squeezed into the head.

Nengun, RHDjapan, etc.

And stiff as f**k springs, no?

It's a module behind the dash in front of left knee. Well, it is on R32 and I can't imagine why they'd move it. Just pull the plug.

Helical does not work like an LSD when wheels are off the ground. So jack it up, put it neutral, turn one rear wheel. If the opposite wheel goes in the same direction, it's viscous. If it goes in the opposite direction (like an open diff would) then it's helical. It almost certainly won't be helical because there's only a small fraction of R34s that have it. If it's helical, unless you're going to track it, you'd be making a mistake in changing it to a plate type diff. The helical is the nicest diff for street. In Supra circles, the helicals for those cars change hands for big $$. When you buy a diff centre you have to transfer the CW over from your old centre. What matters after that is whether the new centre is supposed to work with your original stub axles or if it comes with new stubs. The Nismo diffs come with stubs to suit (when buying for Nissan VLSDs) because the stubs on VLSDs are uneven length and don't suit real diffs. Other brands of mech diff may or may not be made to work with the uneven length stub axles. This is a problem when trying to ruin a helical diff, because helicals have even length stubs. It throws all the variables up in the air and you have to pick through what's going to work and what's not going to work.

nom nom nom

It's all about the offset. You can buy spacers to push wheels further out, but you can't buy unspacers to bring them further in. If the tyres are rubbing on the outer guard, then you're shit out of luck. Different wheels required. You do realise that there's a whole thread devoted to what wheel and tyre combos fit on Skylines at the top of this very forum, yes? Read, see what works.

Fair enough. I'd actually glossed over the fact that the HKS cams were staggered. My opinion on the matter of staggered cams with bigger exhausts on turbo engines leads towards discussion of fixing the problem that requires a staggered cam instead of the band-aid solution. External gates &/or bigger rear housings &/or better ex manifolds being the non-band-aid solutions.

I think this obsession over the specific brand of cam is a bit odd. Regardless of whether there was some interesting differences in the profiles between the HKS cams and the Poncams at the same ~256° duration, the fact remains that they are both 256° and there are a million other things that influence what the dyno curves and 400 times will come out looking like. Things like how they've been dialled in, exhaust manifold, turbo choice, and a bunch of others are going to be far far more significant than the lobes on the cams.

What model? What engine?

Adding a turbo is a biggish exercise. Twin turbo is a little easier (providing there is room on both sides of the engine) because you don't need to bring an exhaust pipe from one side to the other. But if there is a lack of space in the enginebay, then it doesn't matter whether you go single or twin, your going to have to move/relocate some stuff. A decent turbo (Garrett GTX, BW EFR, etc etc) are >$2k, plus you will either buy or build manifolds, get wastegates (if you're serious about power) boost controllers, lots of pipework, fuel pumps, injectors, ECU replacement, etc etc. You won't get out of it for <$10k anyway, unless you're able to do all the fab and fitting yourself, and even then you'd go close. The Stillen supercharger kit at $10k is still just buying. It will no doubt go up a few grand once it's in. You'll also need engineering of some sort, depending on what state you're in, because adding turbos to modern cars is frowned upon. I see that you're in Melbourne. Even adding an intake is enough to get the wowsers in Vicroads and the police angry with you. Don't get me wrong, I think a boosted VQ37 sounds like a bloody good idea. But it is a serious commitment, not an idle afternoon's work.

"Chip" tuning is a kinda shit thing that is thankfully mostly dead. These days we tend to either; Directly tune the factory ECU (if it has been broken into by the community) Replace the main chip in the ECU with a daughterboard and tune using that, Replace the whole ECU with something aftermarket. I don't know if the VQ37 ECUs have been broken. I'd guess they probably haven't because there can't be too many people out there that would want to tune them and the available benefits wouldn't be very large (because no turbo). I'm pretty sure that Nistune don't have a daughterboard that will go into these later ECUs, so probably shit out of luck there. Aftermarket ECU is always going to work, and is that path that anyone doing serious mods to one of these would most likely follow. Regardless, keep in mind what I've said above......You'll only nett a handful of extra kW from an NA tune on a fairly highly specced Jap engine. Just throw the exhaust and intake on it, then pop the thing on the dyno and check the mixtures. If they're fine then a tune (and whatever is needed to be done to the ECU to permit it to tune!) is just a lot of extra money for a fairly small benefit.

You wouldn't dare put f**king Armourall on leather!!!!!!

What? The rails? There would be about 10^1188882727 of them on eBay.

Depends on the gasket more than the studs.

I was going to say....why bugger about with the brand name Jap cams when Kelford and even Camtech have excellent choices and local support?

Not stock Skyline rails. Aftermarket rails to suit Skyline, yes.

If your hot oil is from hot coolant is from exhaust gases in the coolant is from not retensioning your studs......then you'll be wanting to give yourself a slap. Get the coolant tested for CO2 contamination to confirm/eliminate and get the head studs tweaked. Then see if it keeps getting hot. Keep in mind that the coolant temperature gauge will stay in the middle across a wide range of temperature so will mask if it is getting hot too.

I don't know if they're that identical.

They're just a little bit cheap and nasty. Not long life fabric, that sort of thing. They do meet ADRs though, so they're acceptable.

Autobarn Poland?

Set the rev limiter to a much lower value (like 1000 rpm less) and hit it again. See if it shits itself the same.

Well it all comes down to how many extra/unusual things you want to do. The ECU, any ECU, only has so many pins available for direct connection stuff. So if you want to have 2x O2 sensors and multiple this and some of that and PID control of a cam position or two, you will at some point have to shunt some of it off to other interface boxes and connect that via serial comms. If you only want to do one of those things, then, yeah, straight off the ECU shouldn't be a problem.

Intercooler volume has far less influence on lag than you'd think. When the turbo comes on boost it is making air flow at a massive number compared to the volume of the intercooler (and all the rest of the pipework). It's really not an influence on lag at all, unless stupidly big. The main effect is on throttle response when off boost. As to the exhaust - high backpressure after the turbine leads to high pressure in the ex manifold which doesn't help the det situation. If you have at least semi-decent dumps with no cat, then you're probably alright. But if any muffler has a size reduction in it (like a lot of Jap ones do) then that won't help and would be better if it was not there.