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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. do this, since you're in the US already.. would be cheap http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-7064-turbo.html comes in T3 and bolts up, just need a new dump and a fancy looking intake If you were in Australia I would just say go a Hypergear turbo, even their high flow turbos in stock housing and all will happily shit out a comfy ~270kW on normal fuel.
  2. Yes, they're a horrible turbo. Get a Garrett GTX3071 or so.. or straight up go for an BW EFR
  3. Don't want to make your day any worse.. but buy a new turbo
  4. better not to run any relief valve.. just pump -> line -> filter -> rail 3x S15s I've tuned recently, I deleted all 3x relief valves.. pieces of shit, you add boost and it loses fuel pressure.
  5. need cams for carpark meets and JDMST EOMM, then enable 2-step
  6. Looks great Phil and I shuold be floating about at WTAC and we'll drop by to say hi
  7. that's really cool! did you just use those U bracket things (those brackets to hold up conduit) to attach it?
  8. Could be FMIC related as the pressure is dropping dramatically across the core.. so hot side could still be 22psi however cold side is 16psi (as an example). Try hooking up the pressure source from the cold side to your actuator and block off the pressure source (compressor side). And "if" it's hitting 22psi all the way, then you know your FMIC is playing silly buggers.
  9. however read into Intima SR pads
  10. Nope, if you pool or don't pool the fuel at the valve it's not going to make a difference.. as the air/fuel will be drawn down when required as a whole when the valve opens for the intake stroke and the piston "vacs" out the air/fuel then the valve shuts. That mixture is set now with the proportion of fuel you've commanded... Then once it's ready to boogie, the spark will ignite with the flame front starting closer to the spark plug side then extending down to build pressure thus the bang. Either way you're not going to make more power. Power comes from ignition timing and mixtures (of course other shit too like fuel octane, air density, air temperature ra ra ra).
  11. I do about 4000km per year so 9000km per year is plenty!
  12. I giggled like a little bitch on the phone. #truestory I still don't get how full comp can cost less than Just Car's 3rd Party with Fire and Theft. I'm happy it's cheaper, and the free road side assist is amazing, especially when I need to drive 100km+ each way to Wakefield.
  13. completely opposite to what you just said NRMA Vintage insurance insured me for $323 per year, full comp with all my shit box mods + free road side assist if I'm over 100km away from home. Justcars wanted $1300, even their standard fire and theft was more, and offers less than what NRMA provided for less. Win!
  14. Don't go NS400 for racing use, you'll end up in a tree. HC800 are superb pads, just minus the noise.
  15. wallah! shuuuu cuz, look brah.. fries 3rds with 200kW
  16. ^ yep! then buy proper tyres, a proper LSD, proper suspension arms to fix up the crappy Nissan rear geometry.. If you can't even put 200kW down to the ground, don't bother with power upgrades.
  17. make sure you have money for a nice 1.5way or 2way LSD... I constantly see morons on facebook saying "my 200kW skyline fries 3rd gear" or "my stock R33 can fry 3rds"... "what's wrong with your car, you can't even fry 3rds with 370kW" Have the power, at least back it up by putting it down... I once had to pull out the Q-Starz to shutup this moron saying I didn't have that kind of power because I "couldn't fry 3rds"... yepp.. that's why the car did 197km/h down wakefield.
  18. Twin gates superb boost control, minimise back pressure and 100% gas separation from Cyl 1~3 and Cyl 4~6. However a twin scroll on a single large 50 to 60mm gate will also work provided it has been split all the way down to the gate seat. A GTX3071 on a divided 0.83 on E85 with a RB25 would be a response weapon, however might tap out a little early. I recently suggested the parts for this 180SX I tuned (SR20, Poncams, basic forged motor, GTX3071, 0.83 divided rear) - made 351kW and all in at 4200rpm (that's a non VCT motor).. ......... now image a RB25 with VCT. However, if you're planning to spend money, I would say get into a GTX3576.. you'll get bored of a 300kW R33/R34 in no time.. and get toasted by Golf Rs at the lights with their fancy launch control, 4wd, DSG, dual zone climate control, sunroof, 7 airbags, independent ABS, oh fuuarkk I want a new car.
  19. a stock neo would happily shit out 300~350kW all year round btw.. since you have cash to fry, I would straight out go twin scroll, T4, twin gates, and a EFR7670, basic cams no more than 260 degrees, and as much boost as you can b4 you reach the turbo's safe RPM zone. OR GTX3576 with a 1.01 rear, same shit as mentioned above but in T3.. and put in as much boost as possible.. those GTX 11 blade compressors need boost to boogie.
  20. someone buy this shit box, respray it, slam it on it's tits, run some rota grids + stretch tyres and take it to dyno days and car park meets... has antilag, will impress the kids. 11/10 shoots flames.
  21. Interesting choice of turbo, keen on data
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