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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    What you can do with the diff depends on what is "dead" inside it. If you have broken the crownwheel &/or pinion, then the diff is effectively a throwaway. This is very unlikely, though. If the gears or the viscous coupling (is it a VLSD?) in the centre have failed, then the best approach is to buy a good brandname mechanical LSD centre to put in it. If you do this, then you keep your crownwheel & pinion (and hence the ratio stays the same). Depending on what mech centre you buy, you will either reuse your original stub axles, or you will get new ones with the centre. If you go about trying to replacing it with a whole 2nd hand diff, then you will be well advised to get a good look under your car, note the length of the front portion of the diff housing, the type of speed sensors (for ABS &/or speedo) and then go shopping for a Skyline diff. But you will need to make sure you get something with the same ratio, of course. S14 diffs will definitely have the wrong ratio. As to the coils....You don't specify what year your Stagea is, so it is a bit difficult to be precise about which coils suit. It is completely unlikely that RB26 coils will work, because the early 26 coils need an external igniter module as do the early RB25 coils and the later RB25 coils have internal igniters. Stageas, I think, all have internal ignitors.
  2. GTSBoy
    Well, poncams are generally crap. And they will NOT give you the response increase you're looking for. Just the opposite, in fact.
  3. GTSBoy
    No, my best estimate, without actually doing all the measurement and calculation required, is that the comp. ratio will increase by about 15%. That is faaaaaar too much to take up with a head gasket. You will either need Neo pistons, or a vanilla RB25 head.
  4. GTSBoy
    Yes, but my thought is that Haltech are on of those crowds that occasionally do special firmware for their ECUs, if you ask nicely enough.
  5. GTSBoy
    You might ask Haltech what could be done to the ECU to permit the use of the PRP triggers. It might be possible.
  6. GTSBoy
    Not legal to alter an odo reading, regardless of which direction you need to alter it. Also, RMS would not care one shit how far the car has gone, whether real or resulting from speedo/odo swap. Because you are putting in a brand new one with zero clicks on it, just take a photo of your old odo reading next to your phone showing the date and/or a newspaper showing the date that you do the swap. That should be enough proof for anyone later that the kays you claim are true.
  7. GTSBoy
    You want the speedo sensor from a manual RB25DE R33. It's basically the same tranny as you have (the skinny one).
  8. GTSBoy
    You can't check for twist. All such shafts twist when loaded. An example, the tailshaft in a 928 racecar I knew of (actually, it's a torquetube, but that's not a problem) twisted up to 8 full turns on launch! Short axles like on your car won't twist that much, but they still twist. The problem with that twist with regard to axle tramp is simply harmonic motion. You load it up, it twists until it is transmitting the torque to the tyre, then the tyre breaks traction and the shaft rapidly unloads and untwists the shaft which will "untwist" past the neutral point and recoil, oscillating around the neutral point. This happens in all such shafts, but sometimes it just reaches a condition where it drives the oscillations instead of allowing them to dampen out. The same is true for all the other causes of axle tramp. It's something that's moving or soaking up the torque, then releasing it and allowing it to swing back and forth without damping away.
  9. GTSBoy
    Well, after my previous suggestion, the list of things that can cause axle tramp includes, Tyre compound, Tyre pressure, Control arm bush compliance, (specifically worn, damaged, or simply mismatched between upper and lower arms, etc), Driveshaft twist, Hub spline wear, CV joint wear, Diff bushes, Subframe bushes, Damper settings (should have put this one closer to the top, but I don't believe that adjusting dampers to fix axle tramp as the first priority is the way to set a car up - you should set the dampers to control the springs in normal usage, which is cornering), And, probably, even anti-roll bar stiffness and/or the bushes in the links on the ARB. Does that help?
  10. GTSBoy
    Grease the pivot/spring and/or repair/replace the broken clutch pedal bracket.
  11. GTSBoy
    Poor rear anti-squat geometry. It's really hard to beat on that era of Nissan IRS. The next gen cars (R33/S14) were much better.
  12. GTSBoy
    Easy enough. You need offset bushes - the 4 main bolts are in slightly different spots.
  13. GTSBoy
    That was evident from the 1st photo of the 1st post.
  14. GTSBoy
    The idle air control draws from the turbo inlet, via a combo of rubber and hardpipes that are attached to the original crossover inlet pipe arrangement. The butchered plenum means that all that is gone, so the butcher found a way. The BOV returns to the same place (turbo inlet, a separate port), so it's not incorrect for it to be hooked up the way that it is, just an ugly hack. If you want a BOV back, you will need to attach it to the cold side intercooler pipe just before the TB and return it to the turbo inlet. This is not strictly necessary - just depends on whether you like dose or like to have the inlet air bypass the turbo when on cruise (which is what it is actually for). The main issue is the ECU.
  15. GTSBoy
    That whole setup is completely f**ked up. The BOV return line routed to the back of the manifold is actually feeding the idle control valve. Which is why it stalls if you crimp it. You can't run a big turbo and altered fuel pressure etc etc against a stock R33 ECU. It will tell you to go f**k yourself by making you fill up at every servo you pass. This fits your description of your symptoms pretty well. See above post.
  16. GTSBoy
    300°F is nothing. Just throw a heat resistant sleeve over it and forget about it.
  17. GTSBoy
    Pictures likely won't help. We're talking about you having it put together ever so slightly cocked or with a spacer or something out of place. Not the sort of thing that we'll be able to see in your typical F2.4 super wide angle phone cam picture.
  18. GTSBoy
    Don't be a f**kwit. You asked. I answered with useful info. I also told you that if it was a VLSD it was a waste of time, not knowing whether Nissan persisted with putting those useless lumps of shit into cars after the R3x era. Now that I do know, I can authoritatively tell the next guy that it is definitely a bad idea. Thanks, you have helped the forum. Put it this way, if you have a car that will work well with a VLSD, you don't really need an LSD at all.
  19. GTSBoy
    Connect straight from boost sense port to the wastegate. One hose, job done. But I wouldn't do that. I would also install an EBC so you can keep the boost off the actuator to get the ramp rate up, otherwise it will still feel slow coming onto boost.
  20. GTSBoy
    Yuh, you've not put it back together right.
  21. GTSBoy
    Might be the best idea. There's no point in listening to people who have been there and done that. What the f**k would we know?
  22. GTSBoy
    VLSDs are useless behind stock turbo RB20s at 14 psi. Not a lot of power.
  23. GTSBoy
    VLSDs are intended for use with low torque factory engines. Hit them with more torque than they were intended to handle, especially once they are 10 or so years old, and they just turn to single wheeling shit.
  24. GTSBoy
    So long as these LSDs are not viscous LSDs. VLSDs are like AIDS, and no-one wants AIDS.
  25. GTSBoy
    They are both R200 diffs, from similar era cars, so it is likely that the housings/mountings etc are compatible. Splines not lining up is not a problem unless the LSD has different stub axles to what the other diff has. This is actually a strong possibility. So if you have to keep the stub axles that belong to the centre, then you may have to look at swapping driveshafts too. This is possible. Most (OK, not necessarily most, but certainly many) Nissan driveshafts swap from family to family. Ratio difference is something that you will have to work out if the change is good or bad. It will throw your speedo out. That's always bad. If you can't take it, then you will be looking at swapping the CW&P from your original diff onto the LSD centre. This is a complete disassemble of both diffs and reassembly (and proper setup) of at least one. This is usually possible, but Nissan do have a habit of launching surprises at the unwary, where the CW bolts are different sizes in two otherwise similar diffs. The other problem that may crop up is differences in the ABS sensors and rings.
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