GTSBoy

Mental as in rust below the side windows is not a good thing. It has started under the window's seal and spread. There will probably also be rust on the other side of the panel. Take the rear trim out and inspect. You may be better off doing almost anything else with the car rather than spend on rust repairs there.

Hi, Good news. FYI, current is measured in just Amps (or milliAmps). An Amp-hour is a measure of battery capacity, being the product of a current and a length of time. You just need to talk about Amps. And for measuring big currents, you need a clamp meter. Gets the meter out of the circuit and infers the current by electromagnetism. Worth the cost at Jaycar.

Download the R34 manual and follow the wiring diagram. The most likely thing though is that some arsehat will have strapped some permanently powered device onto that supply, so it won't be on the diagram.

Cardogawanker may be clickbait....but realistically, he's right about not buying Holden. Holden is dead. Why would you voluntarily buy something that will become an unsupported orphan? And it's not as if the new Commode has anything to offer over the zillion other FWD pussboxes in the same segment. In fact, it is blandest amongst the bland. VF, is another story. High point at the tail end of a sad story.

All the above is valid. Easiest 1st step is to simply rotate all the fuses in their clips in the fuse box, in case there's some corrrosion causing a poor connection. I have had to do that more than once to clear weird intermittent elec gremlins.

I had to grease all the rod ends on both sides. This is explicitly against their advice...but we all know that people who really use rod ends on race cars keep them lubed. The sphericals in the main body on the other side of the car are still moving freely enough at this stage. It's about 8 months now, but when the bearings got tight enough to upset me was a couple months ago. Only about 4000km of use up to that point, I think. I can't fault their service.

The coolant should be left going through it as it is the high point bleeder on the whole circuit. "Bypassing" is by just blocking off its air supply is a bit crude. You own't have idle up for air-con or high electrical load. But if it's already idling high, that's probably not going to stall you out. I would try another ECU.

and again......... GK-Tech sent me a new main body for the one with stuck sphericals. Very nice of them to do so.

There's not enough benefit in changing to GTR stuff to warrant the effort & cost. 5 bolters are plenty strong enough.

Isn't this where everyone just says RIPS?

Non-HICAS subframe goes in. You keep your uprights, which means you keep your fork type suspension units. So far happy happy. You need the toe control arm outer bush inserts (from the non-HICAS car, or preferably new) to replace the HICAS tie-rod outer balljoints. Easy enough with the usual brute force and a press. All bushes are otherwise the same and will swap.

Trouble is, the tyres are a mixed bag. No-one in their right mind would drive them as a "set". So their value to a purchaser is not really all that high. OK, so 2 of them appear to be at least the same tyre. But the other 2 are non-brand yucky stuff. Even if they were a matched set of tyres, 2nd hand tyres suffer a massive discount in buyer's minds. In this case, if I were looking to buy these wheels, I would actually consider them to be worth more without tyres, because I would have to pay to have them taken off and disposed of in order to put on the tyres that I actually want to use. That's just me, and there are no doubt more sketchy guys out there who would be happy to use mixed tyres, but then these guys aren't the sort to offer top $ for a set of wheels either.

Low will not affect anything. The simple answer is just to disable HICAS* (because of its love of the cawk) and if the problem persists then it is mechanical, in a steering joint. The longer answer is that it could be either a HICAS problem or a problem with a steering joint (ie, tie rod end, most likely) and I can't see how it could be diagnosed over the 'net unless someone has had and solved the exact same issue. *By "disable HICAS" I mean a complete HICAS delete kit.

They're glued in. I just leave it to my panel guy.

Broken AAC screw is not a good indicator that all is well inside it!

Colour me befuddled. What use is a power curve that looks like that?

Cool. Although I'm not sure why they bother. Would that only be a typical 3 port valve to use with the internal WG? I can't see someone with super tricky boost control on an ext WG wanting it.

They are R32 GTR wheels. They are very good wheels, but just too small for actual use on a GTR these days. They are worth what you can convince someone to pay for them. If in good nick, certainly close to $1000.

You can get EFRs with internal or external wastegate exhaust housings. The recirc valve is typically built into the compressor housing. No, there is no "inbuilt" MAC valve. The MAC valve is part of the boost controller setup, not the turbo (on any turbo). I don't know specifically which housings are available for the 8374, because I'm not interested in putting a turbo that big on my car so I don't waste my time looking into it. But there would have to be ~1000 posts on that turbo on these forums just in the last 6 months. So there is plenty of info just on here, let alone on the BW website.

The static toe is set by the tie rod length (or toe control arm with no HICAS), which, for the purposes of the geometry of the swinging of the wheel, is a 3rd link (actually a 4h link) that swings through a different arc than the lower control arm that it runs near. Different locations for the inner and out ends. Causes a small tweak to the path of the other arms.

Would imply that the switch is borked. Take it out and dismantle it. You might find it's just dirty/arced up and some CO contact cleaner could help. Or you might find something plastic is broken inside and it can be brought back to life with araldite & cable ties or something.

Everyone else's traction arm length will be specific to; Which car - R32 different to R33/4, etc, Upper control arm length, Static toe setting. So there's no point in trying to compare too many apples with oranges. You have likely found a setting which is far better than what you had before. If your jig is a bit rough, then maybe it's not the best setting possible, but still better. If you want to consider an alternative way of doing it, strap a mirror onto the hub or disc face. Place a board upright, parallel to the car about 2-3m out from the side of the car. Clip some paper onto the board. Shoot a laser point at the mirror from a spot close to the edge of the board/paper so that it reflects onto the paper. Keep the total angle as small as you can. Jack the hub up and down and mark the reflection points on the paper. You will get a line that goes up and down as the hub swings through its arc. Any forward/backward motion of the reflected dot is bump steer. You can change the arm length and generate another curve on the same piece of paper. Do this and get worse bump steer? Make the opposite change. Then just increase or decrease arm length until the line is as close to vertical as possible. It has the beauty of not needing to work in the same place to adjust the arm as your jig/dial gauge/whatever measurements are being taken. It's less quantitative as to how big the toe change is in mm unless you measure the change on the paper and do some trig to work out the swing at the wheel, but that hardly matters, because all we're looking for is the smallest amount of bump steer.

What ECU? Asking DET ECU to run from DE AFM or vice versa would not be recommended. As to the vacuum line....it sounds like it is breathing through this hose at idle. If you cannot close it, it implies that the idle control valve is not working.

Glazed rotors can be brought back with garnet paper.

There's a number of people who like the S series Borg Warner turbos....but that's not what I was thinking of. I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range. I strongly suggest that you start reading the various (dozens) of threads on here that already discuss all these things. Also go to the BW website and play with their matchbot. Wastegate will probably want to be 60mm, or possibly twin 40mm, depending on the manifold and the turbo chosen. True split pulse manifolds and turbos deserve proper split pulse wastegating. When it comes to the MAC valve......I don't know. I assume you will be trying to use the Haltech to do boost control. I do not know what its capabilities are (whether it can run only one valve or if it can run two). One is usually enough. You are asking for high power levels, which means boost control quality will be important. Using an external gate at least allows you to use a multi-port MAC valve to apply control to both sides of the diaphragm. There's more reading in that for you too.